Sand waves are found on shallow, sandy seabeds throughout the world and their dynamics may pose an imminent threat to offshore construction. Therefore, there is a pressing need to understand bed level dynamics in sand wave areas. These bed level dynamics lead to variations in sand wave shape and migration rate over time. However, these variations cannot be explained with the present-day process-based sand wave models, which all include a purely periodic tidal forcing. To explain these fluctuations a more intricate description of the hydrodynamics is necessary. The aim of this study is to explore the importance of time-varying, non-tidal currents for sand wave dynamics in the North Sea. We adopted the three-dimensional Delft3D-Flexible Mesh model, and were able to reconstruct time-varying, non-tidal currents on top of the periodic tidal forcing, while significantly reducing computation times. The simulated currents and water levels showed a good agreement with in-situ measurements. Compared to the situation with only tidal forcing, the simulated sedimentation and erosion rates were amplified up to 15 times due to time-varying, non-tidal currents. Additionally, periods of net erosion were found at locations in the sand wave transect where tidally forced models only showed net-sedimentation. It is therefore important to consider time-varying, non-tidal currents when predicting future sand wave dynamics in the field.

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Nature-based coastal protection is increasingly recognised as a potentially sustainable and cost-effective solution to reduce coastal flood risk. It uses coastal ecosystems such as mangrove forests to create resilient designs for coastal flood protection. However, to use mangroves effectively as a nature-based measure for flood risk reduction, we must understand the biophysical processes that govern risk reduction capacity through mangrove ecosystem size and structure. In this perspective, we evaluate the current state of knowledge on local physical drivers and ecological processes that determine mangrove functioning as part of a nature-based flood defence. We show that the forest properties that comprise coastal flood protection are well-known, but models cannot yet pinpoint how spatial heterogeneity of the forest structure affects the capacity for wave or surge attenuation. Overall, there is relatively good understanding of the ecological processes that drive forest structure and size, but there is a lack of knowledge on how daily bed-level dynamics link to long-term biogeomorphic forest dynamics, and on the role of combined stressors influencing forest retreat. Integrating simulation models of forest structure under changing physical (e.g. due to sea-level change) and ecological drivers with hydrodynamic attenuation models will allow for better projections of long-term natural coastal protection.

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Salt marshes can contribute to coastal protection, but the magnitude of the protection depends on the width of the marsh. The cross-shore width of the marsh is to a large extent determined by the delicate balance between seaward expansion and landward retreat. The influence of the magnitude of daily occurring mild weather conditions and sediment availability on the variability of salt marsh width has not been systematically assessed. This paper investigates how the magnitude of homogeneous hydrodynamic forcing, combined with sediment availability, affects the biophysical development, and more specifically retreat and expansion of salt marshes. The dynamic extent of the salt marsh is assessed by modeling online-coupled hydrodynamics, morphodynamics and vegetation growth using the numerical Delft3D-Flexible Mesh model, and a vegetation growth module. Simulated patterns around the salt marsh edge resembled field observations, as well as the simulated temporal variability of the lateral position of the salt marsh edge. In the model, the salt marsh extended seaward at low wave forcing (0.00 m; 0.05 m), and retreated landward at higher wave forcing (0.10 m; 0.15 m). With increasing physical stress, the salt marsh edge was found at lower elevations, indicating an unhealthy system with a retreating marsh edge due to vegetation mortality, whereas decreasing physical stresses result in a higher salt marsh edge, enabling expansion. This balance suggests the importance of response time of vegetation to physical stress. Yet, the salt marsh forced with higher waves was able to switch from a retreating extent retrogradational to an expansional behavior as sediment supply increased.

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Tidal flats provide valuable ecosystem services such as flood protection and carbon sequestration. Erosion and accretion processes govern the ecogeomorphic evolution of intertidal ecosystems (marshes and bare flats) and, hence, substantially affect their valuable ecosystem services. To understand the intertidal ecosystem development, high-frequency bed-level change data are thus needed. However, such datasets are scarce due to the lack of suitable methods that do not involve excessive labour and/or costly instruments. By applying newly developed surface elevation dynamics (SED) sensors, we obtained unique high-resolution daily bed-level change datasets in the period 2013-2017 from 10 marsh-mudflat sites situated in the Netherlands, Belgium, and the United Kingdom in contrasting physical and biological settings. At each site, multiple sensors were deployed for 9-20 months to ensure sufficient spatial and temporal coverage of highly variable bed-level change processes. The bed-level change data are provided with synchronized hydrodynamic data, i.e. water level, wave height, tidal current velocity, medium sediment grain size (D₅₀), and chlorophyll a level at four sites. This dataset has revealed diverse spatial morphodynamics patterns over daily to seasonal scales, which are valuable to theoretical and model development. On the daily scale, this dataset is particularly instructive, as it includes a number of storm events, the response to which can be detected in the bed-level change observations. Such data are rare but useful to study tidal flat response to highly energetic conditions. The dataset is available from 4TU.ResearchData (https://doi.org/10.4121/12693254.v4; Hu et al., 2020), which is expected to expand with additional SED sensor data from ongoing and planned surveys.

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The twofold aim of this paper is to provide an overview of the current state of resilience research with regard to climate change in the social sciences and propose a research agenda. Resilience research among social scientists is characterized by much more diversity today than a few decades ago. Different definitions and understandings of resilience appear in publications during the last 10 years. Resilience research increasingly bears the mark of social constructivism, a relative newcomer compared to the more long-standing tradition of naturalism. There are also approaches that are indebted to both "naturalism" and "constructivism", which, of course, come in many varieties. Based on our overview of recent scholarship, which is far from being exhaustive, we have identified six research avenues that arguably deserve continued attention. They combine naturalist and constructivist insights and approaches so that human agency, reflexivity, and considerations of justice and equity are incorporated into systems thinking research or supplement such research. Ultimately, we believe that the overarching challenge for future research is to ensure that resilience to climate change does not compromise sustainability and considerations of justice (including environmental, climate, and energy justice)..@en

The composition of benthic species communities in the nearshore zone is closely related to the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions. Sustainable management of the coastal ecosystem requires knowledge about the natural dynamics as well as human-induced changes on the ecosystem. To improve our knowledge of the benthic species distribution along a dissipative sandy shore with multiple breaker bars, an extensive dataset was collected in the nearshore zone of the barrier islands Ameland and Schiermonnikoog in the Dutch North Sea. From 2010 to 2014, every year, approximately 180 grab samples along 18 cross-shore transects were collected and analyzed for sediment characteristics and macrobenthic species composition. Mixed-effect-models and partial redundancy analysis were used to analyze the importance of morphological features (i.e., slopes, bar crests, and troughs) as an explanatory variable for the benthic species distribution. The results indicate that the morphological features in themselves explain three times more variation than the environmental parameters used. This demonstrates the importance of morphological features as a factor in explaining the distribution of benthic species communities in the nearshore. Detailed information on morphological features is easy to obtain from bathymetry maps or visual inspection. Incorporating morphological features in species distribution models will therefore help to improve sustainable management of our valuable sandy coastal systems.

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Foreshores consisting of both bare tidal flats and vegetated salt marshes are found worldwide and they are well studied for their wave attenuating capacity. However, most studies only focus on the small scale: just some isolated locations in space and only up to several years in time. In order to stimulate the implementation of foreshores serving as reliable coastal defense on a large scale, we need to quantify the decadal wave attenuating capacity of the foreshore on the scale of an estuary. To study this, a unique bathymetrical dataset is analyzed, covering the geometry of the Westerschelde estuary (The Netherlands) over a time-span of 65 years. From this dataset, six study sites were extracted (both sheltered sites and exposed sites to the prevailing wind direction) and divided into transects. This resulted in 36 transects covering the entire foreshore (composed of the bare tidal flat and the vegetated salt marsh). The wave attenuation of all transects under daily conditions (with and without vegetation) and design conditions (i.e. events statistically occurring once every 10,000 years) was modelled. Overall, the spatial variability of the geometry of a single foreshore was observed to be much larger than the temporal variability. Temporal changes in salt marsh width did not follow the variability of the entire foreshore. Both under daily and design conditions, vegetation contributes to decreasing wave energy and decreases the variability of incoming wave energy, thereby decreasing the wave load on the dike. The southern foreshores, sheltered from the prevailing wind direction, were more efficient in wave attenuation than the exposed northern foreshores. A linear relation between marsh width and wave attenuation over a period of 65 years was observed at all marshes. The present study provides insights needed to calculate the length of a salt marsh to obtain a desired minimum wave attenuating capacity.

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Flood risks are increasing worldwide due to climate change and ongoing economic and demographic development in coastal areas. Salt marshes can function as vegetated foreshores that reduce wave loads on coastal structures such as dikes and dams, thereby mitigating current and future flood risk. This paper aims to quantify long-term (100 years) flood risk reduction by salt marshes. Dike-foreshore configurations are assessed by coupled calculations of wave energy dissipation over the foreshore, sediment accretion under sea level rise, the probability of dike failure, and life-cycle costs. Rising sea levels lead to higher storm waves, and increasing probabilities of dike failure by wave overtopping. This study shows that marsh elevation change due to sediment accretion mitigates the increase in wave height, thereby elongating the lifetime of a dike-foreshore system. Further, different human interventions on foreshores are assessed in this paper: realization of a vegetated foreshore via nourishment, addition of a detached earthen breakwater, addition of an unnaturally high zone, or foreshore build-up by application of brushwood dams that enhance sediment accretion. The performance of these strategies is compared to dike heightening for the physical boundary conditions at an exposed dike along the Dutch Wadden Sea. Cost-effectiveness depends on three main factors. First, wave energy dissipation, which is lower for salt marshes with a natural elevation in the intertidal zone, when compared to foreshores with a high zone or detached breakwater. Second, required costs for construction and maintenance. Continuous maintenance costs and delayed effects on flood risk make sheltering structures less attractive from a flood risk perspective. Third, economic value of the protected area, where foreshores are particularly cost-effective for low economic value. Concluding, life-cycle cost analysis demonstrates that, within certain limits, foreshore construction can be more cost-effective than dike heightening.@en

In Nederland zijn honderden kilometers aan waterkering toe aan versterking. De aanleg van begroeide vooroevers, zoals schorren en kwelders, is een mogelijkheid om de belasting op dijken te verminderen. Daarmee dalen overstromingsrisico’s en gaan natuurwaarden omhoog.@en

Understanding the abiotic factors governing salt marsh dynamics is crucial to incorporate such ecosystems in holistic coastal risk management (Bouma et al, 2014). Process-based modelling of these ecosystems can help to gain insight into their response to changing environmental conditions. Therefore, a new process-based approach was applied to model establishment and survival of salt marsh vegetation, bridging the gap between geophysical and ecological models. A salt marsh ecosystem representative for the Western Scheldt Estuary, the Netherlands, which is characterized by semi-diurnal tides, locally generated waves and transport of fine sediments, was simulated starting from a bare mudflat. Salt marsh development is simulated in a Python script based on two concepts: Windows of Opportunity, accounting for seedling establishment (Poppema et al, 2019), and Population Dynamics, describing the growth and decay of established salt marshes (Temmerman et al, 2007). This external script is coupled to a morphodynamic Delft3D Flexible Mesh model through Basic Model Interface (BMI). The model results show that the establishment of pioneer vegetation on bare tidal flats governs the of tidal channels. The rate of seedling establishment affects the geometry of tidal channels, leading to narrow and deep channels aligned with the direction of tidal flow for fast colonizers (e.g. Salicornia europaea; glasswort) and wider, meandering channels for slow colonizers (e.g. Spartina anglica; cordgrass). Moreover, the response of the salt marsh-tidal flat system to changing abiotic conditions (e.g. waves, sediment influx) is assessed, showing that although fast colonizing salt marsh species are less resistant to physical forcing, they can adjust more rapidly to changes in environmental conditions. Concluding, a new process-based approach for biogeomorphological modelling has helped to improve the understanding of salt marsh development under changing environmental conditions, bringing incorporation of these ecosystems into coastal management a step further.@en

Living near estuaries comes with flood risks from riverine and coastal sources, nevertheless the population density is high and still growing. The population and assets are generally protected by conventional coastal measures, which are challenged by increased storm intensity and sea level rise (SLR). However, those solutions are static and do not adapt to a changing climate. Foreshores, consisting of a tidal flat and salt marsh can serve as add-on to conventional coastal protection. Such a hybrid solution is more sustainable, in that the salt marsh part can cope, to a certain extent, with SLR. Previous studies proved the wave attenuating capacity of foreshores. However, all studies focused on the relative small scale only; i.e. some isolated foreshores in space and at most up to several years in time. The key question addressed in this study is: to what extent can foreshores safely act as additional coastal protection over a decadal time scale? A unique bathymetrical dataset was analyzed, covering the whole of the Westerschelde estuary (The Netherlands) over a period of 65 years. A total of 36 transects (aligned with the dominant wind direction) were constructed over a selection of six foreshores. The wave attenuating capacity of the foreshores was assessed under daily conditions both with and without vegetation and under extreme conditions (i.e. events statistically occurring once every 10.000 years), using the numerical model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). By assessing the wave attenuating capacity over the evolving bathymetry over a period of 65 years, it was found that foreshores always contribute to wave attenuation. Under extreme conditions, foreshores sheltered from the prevailing wind direction were more efficient in wave attenuation (i.e. decrease of wave height per meter foreshore), than foreshores located at the exposed shores. Moreover, at all foreshores, the bare tidal flat caused a baseline wave attenuation, while a linear relation was observed between the width of the salt marsh and the wave attenuation; The longer the vegetated marsh, the larger the wave attenuation. Nevertheless, the relation was different per foreshore. The relation found, provides the knowledge needed to calculate the minimum width of the salt marsh to provide the desired wave attenuation under extreme conditions.@en

Vegetated foreshores adjacent to engineered structures (so-called hybrid flood defenses), are considered to have high potential in reducing flood risk, even in the face of sea level rise and increasing storminess. However, foreshores such as salt marshes and mangrove forests are generally characterized by relatively strong temporal and spatial variations in geometry and vegetation characteristics (e.g., stem height and density), which causes uncertainties with regards to their protective value under extreme storm conditions. Currently, no method is available to assess the failure probability of a hybrid flood defense, taking into account the aforementioned uncertainties. This paper presents a method to determine the failure probability of a hybrid flood defense, integrating models and stochastic parameters that describe dike failure and wave propagation over a vegetated foreshore. Two dike failure mechanisms are considered: failure due to (i) wave overtopping and (ii) wave impact on revetments. Results show that vegetated foreshores cause a reduction in failure probability for both mechanisms. This effect is more pronounced for wave impact on revetments than for wave overtopping, since revetment failure occurs at relatively low water levels. The relevance of different uncertainties depends on the protection level and associated dike height and strength. For relatively low dikes (i.e., low protection levels), vegetation remains stable in design conditions, and plays an important role in reducing wave loads. In case of higher protection levels, hence for more robust dikes, vegetation is less important than foreshore geometry, because of expected stem breakage of the vegetation under these more extreme conditions. The integrated analysis of uncertainties in hydraulic loads, dike geometry and foreshore characteristics in this paper enables the comparison between nature-based flood defenses and traditionally engineered solutions, and allows coastal engineers to design hybrid flood defenses worldwide.

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The authors regret that the correct affiliation of co-author Zhenchang Zhu should be ‘Department of Estuarine and Delta Systems, Royal Netherlands Institute for Sea Research and Utrecht University, 4400AC, Yerseke, The Netherlands’. The authors would like to apologise for any inconvenience caused.

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This paper aims to fundamentally assess the resilience of salt marsh-mudflat systems under sea level rise. We applied an open-source schematized 2D area model (Delft3D) that couples intertidal flow, wave-action, sediment transport, geomorphological development with a population dynamics approach including temporal and spatial growth of vegetation and bio-accumulation. Wave-action maintains a high sediment concentration on the mudflat while the tidal motion transports the sediments within the vegetated marsh areas during flood. The marsh-mudflat system attained dynamic equilibrium within 120 years. Sediment deposition and bio-accumulation within the marsh make the system initially resilient to sea level rise scenarios. However, after 50–60 years the marsh system starts to drown with vegetated-levees being the last surviving features. Biomass accumulation and sediment supply are critical determinants for the marsh drowning rate and survival. Our model methodology can be applied to assess the resilience of vegetated coast lines and combined engineering solutions for long-term sustainability.

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Bed level dynamics at the interface of the salt marsh and tidal flat have been highlighted as a key factor connecting the long-term biogeomorphological development of the marsh to large-scale physical forcing. Hence, we aim to obtain insight into the factors confining the location of the marsh edge (i.e., boundary between tidal flat and salt marsh). A unique data set was collected, containing measurements of daily bed level changes (i.e., integrative result of physical forcing and sediment properties) at six intertidal transects in the North Sea area. Moreover, various biophysical parameters were measured, such as sediment characteristics, waves, inundation time, and chlorophyll-a levels. The data show that both bed level change and waves decreased from the lower intertidal flat toward the marsh edge and further diminished inside the marsh. However, no direct general relation was found between waves and bed level change. Bed level change inside the marsh was always small, regardless of wave energy. By combining the data sets, we demonstrate that the location of the lower marsh edge is restricted by two interacting factors: inundation time and bed level change. For vegetation establishment to withstand longer inundation stress, which slows down plant growth, more stable bed levels are required so that plants are not heavily disturbed. Conversely, to withstand more dynamic bed levels that disturbs plant growth, lower inundation stress is needed, so that plants grow fast enough to recover from the stress. The results suggest that bed level change is important in determining the position of the marsh edge.

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One of the services provided by coastal ecosystems is wave attenuation by vegetation, and subsequent reduction of wave loads on flood defense structures. Therefore, stability of vegetation under wave forcing is an important factor to consider. This paper presents a model which determines the wave load that plant stems can withstand before they break or fold. This occurs when wave-induced bending stresses exceed the flexural strength of stems. Flexural strength was determined by means of three-point-bending tests, which were carried out for two common salt marsh species: Spartina anglica (common cord-grass) and Scirpus maritimus (sea club-rush), at different stages in the seasonal cycle. Plant stability is expressed in terms of a critical orbital velocity, which combines factors that contribute to stability: high flexural strength, large stem diameter, low vegetation height, high flexibility and a low drag coefficient. In order to include stem breakage in the computation of wave attenuation by vegetation, the stem breakage model was implemented in a wave energy balance. A model parameter was calibrated so that the predicted stem breakage corresponded with the wave-induced loss of biomass that occurred in the field. The stability of Spartina is significantly higher than that of Scirpus, because of its higher strength, shorter stems, and greater flexibility. The model is validated by applying wave flume tests of Elymus athericus (sea couch), which produced reasonable results with regards to the threshold of folding and overall stem breakage percentage, despite the high flexibility of this species. Application of the stem breakage model will lead to a more realistic assessment of the role of vegetation for coastal protection.

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The sandy seabed of shallow coastal shelf seas displays morphological patterns of various dimensions. The seabed also harbors a rich ecosystem. Increasing pressure from human-induced disturbances necessitates further study on drivers of benthic community distributions over morphological patterns. Moreover, a greater understanding of the sand ripple distribution over tidal sand waves may improve morphological model predictions. Here we analyzed the biotic abundance and ripple morphology in sand wave troughs and crests using video transects. We found that both the epibenthos and endobenthos are significantly more abundant in sand wave troughs, where ripples are less abundant and more irregularly shaped. Finally, we show that camera systems are relatively quick and effective tools to study biotic spatial patterns in relation to seabed morphology.

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The aim of this paper is to optimize power cable routing in a wind farm based on the expected morphological behaviour in the design lifetime of an offshore wind farm. Up to now methods to optimize cable route layout in offshore wind farms are only based on a flat seabed and do not take the seabed dynamics into account. For offshore wind farms, migrating seabed features in the form of sand waves are of great importance and may significantly alter the position of the seabed over the life time of the wind farm. This paper discusses the optimization of power cable routing in a morphodynamic seabed by assessing the power cable burial depth in both the vertical plane, e.g. buried deeper in areas where future seabed lowering is expected, and in the horizontal plane, e.g. diverting the power cables around risk prone areas. Outcomes of the proposed method showed both cost and risk reductions for the Hollandse Kust (zuid) Wind Farm case study compared to state-of-the-art optimization based on a fixed burial depth.

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This paper analyses the effect of vegetation on wave damping under severe storm conditions, based on a combination of field measurements and numerical modelling. The field measurements of wave attenuation by vegetation were performed on two salt marshes with two representative but contrasting coastal wetland vegetation types: cordgrass (Spartina anglica) and grassweed (Scirpus maritimus). The former is found in salty environments, whereas the latter is found in brackish environments. The measurements have added to the range with the highest water depths and wave heights presented in the literature so far. A numerical wave model (SWAN) has been calibrated and validated using the new field data. It appeared that the model was well capable of reproducing the observed decay in wave height over the salt marsh. The model has been applied to compute the reduction of the incident wave height on a dike for various realistic foreshore configurations and hydraulic loading conditions. Additionally, the efficiency of vegetated foreshores in reducing wave loads on the dike has been investigated, where wave loads were quantified using a computed wave run-up height and wave overtopping discharge. The outcomes show that vegetated foreshores reduce wave loads on coastal dikes significantly, also for the large inundation depths that occur during storms and with the vegetation being in winter state. The effect of the foreshore on the wave loads varies with wave height to water depth ratio on the foreshore. The presence of vegetation on the foreshore extends the range of water depths for which a foreshore can be applied for effective reduction of wave loads, and prevents intense wave breaking on the foreshore to occur. This research demonstrates that vegetated foreshores can be considered as a promising supplement to conventional engineering methods for dike reinforcement.

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