The coastline of Demak, Indonesia has been eroded during the last 15 years. To restore the natural coastal protection which existed out of mangroves forest, permeable dams, consisting of bamboo poles with a brushwood filling, have been built to attenuate the waves and facilitate sedimentation behind the dams and thus creating a habitat for mangroves. However these designs required a lot of maintenance, so a new type of design is proposed without a filling of brushwood, containing only vertical bamboo poles. Next to this the possibility to include aquaculture in the design is proposed. Therefore this study assesses the wave transformation by the new designs in Demak, Indonesia with the numerical wave model SWASH. In order to do that first the hydrodynamic conditions are analyzed to obtain the design conditions for the structures, and then SWASH is validated against laboratory experiments to find the right drag coefficient values. The design wave conditions are based on the local water depth, offshore wave heights and periods and local bathymetry. The offshore waves are based on a dataset from WaveWatch III, which compares well with measurements of a local storm event. The dataset of WaveWatch III is filtered and extrapolated to determine the wave conditions for return periods(R) of 1 and 5 years. This resulted in offshore waves with Hm0 = 2.08 and 2.39m, and Tp = 6.9 and 7.5 s respectively. The water level is mainly influenced by the tidal elevation and the surge levels. The surge levels are obtained from a risk assessment of the coast of North Java (Willemsen et al., 2019), which vary between 0.63 to 0.68mfor R = 1 and 5 years respectively. The tidal levels are determined using the water depth measurements of two transects from Van Domburg et al. (2018) and analysed with Matlab tool Utide by Codiga (2011), resulting in a spring tidal range of 85 cm and a neap tidal range of 50 cm.
Four different configurations from the experiments of Jansen (2019) are used to validate SWASH: single row, longitudinal(the spacing in flow direction is longer than the lateral spacing), open uniform and dense uniform configuration. These configurations are modelled in the numerical wave model SWASH by use of the vegetation module. The most influential factors are: the drag coefficient, the way to describe mass conservation and the number of stems(cylinders) per m2. For the drag coefficient the bulk drag coefficient of Gijon Mancheno et al. (2021) is used, which contains factors for sheltering, blockage and the KC state of the flow. For the densely packed configurations the bulk drag coefficient proved to have a better agreement than the drag coefficient of a single cylinder. The sensitivity to the number of stems per m2 is small when implementing the longitudinal configuration as an average amount of stems perm2 or by specifying the individual rows of the configuration and so locally increasing the number of stems. Three methods of describing the mass conservation in SWASH are evaluated: by means of a cross sectional approach that is expressed by the blockage factor in the bulk drag coefficient Gijon Mancheno et al. (2021), by a volumetric approach due to activating the porosity in SWASH which means that the blockage factor cannot be included in the drag coefficient and by a combination of these two. For the longitudinal configuration the best agreement is found the cross sectional approach and for the single row configuration the best agreement is found by the volumetric approach.
Once SWASH is validated, the designs of several structures are investigated. Firstly, a design consisting out of two rows of bamboo poles is considered where the spacing between the rows is varied to find an optimum distance. The transmission rate Et /Ei decreased from 75% to 55% with a spacing sx = 0.42 m to 5.8 m, larger spacings did not result in less transmission. If one wants to be conservative at least three rows are needed to have a lower transmission rate of 50 %. When mussels are considered, the structures have to be placed in deeper water as mussels can only grow between MLWS and 40 cm above the bed. To provide enough space for mussel growth, the poles have to be placed more sparsely. The effect of a larger water depth in combination with a limited pole length and sparse structures is larger than the extra drag and frontal area provided by mussels, especially since they did not cover the whole pole length, and resulted in high transmission rates. It is thus recommended to, or place a high number of rows of mussel poles or place a few rows without mussels followed by poles for mussels. This decision however also depends on benefits that mussel poles may bring and the cost of the materials, therefore a cost/benefit analysis is required.
This thesis found an efficient design that can be used in reducing wave attenuation along muddy coasts without the need of a brushwood filling. Hereby it provides an economically and user friendly alternative with respect to the current design, as it requires less material and maintenance.

Knowledge of nearshore bathymetry is crucial for every aspect of the blue economy. Currently, it is expensive to obtain nearshore bathymetry at regional scales, and therefore this data is not available for many coasts. The data scarcity occurs especially in the global south and big ocean states that are at the highest risk from climate change. Currently the only global bathymetric dataset, GEBCO, provides depth data at approximately a 500 m resolution. This data is of limited accuracy in the nearshore zone because the source data is sparse in nearshore areas. Recent research has found that NASA’s ICESat-2, launched in 2018 to study the cryosphere, can incidentally capture bathymetric data. Some studies have been done in small sites, but the potential for a global product has not yet been investigated. This thesis proposes a method of using GEBCO data as a starting point and incorporating ICESat-2 data via a Kalman filter. This results in a product with a downscaled spatial resolution and improved accuracy without requiring any in-situ data. If other local bathymetry data is available, it can be added as input to the Kalman filter or used for validation of the method. Recent studies in lidar remote sensing have shown that ICESat-2 can capture nearshore bathymetry at depths of up to 20 me in tracks 0–3 km apart, provided atmospheric conditions are good and the water is sufficiently clear. Hence, this data could provide a source of high-resolution bathymetric depth profiles in tropical areas and possibly at higher latitudes. This research project proposes an automated processing chain, written in python, for extracting bathymetry points from the lidar data based on the density of the photon returns in the underwater zone. This method can reliably identify points containing bathymetric signal. To downscale the data using a Kalman filter, first global data from GEBCO is clipped to the area of interest, and then resampled bilinearly to 50 m resolution. Then, the ICESat-2 photon data for the area is processed to generate point estimates of bathymetric depth. To fill in the gaps between these point estimates, the bathymetric points are subsampled and interpolated to the same resolution as the GEBCO data using a universal kriging interpolator. This interpolator results in a raster of the estimated depth, and a raster of the estimated uncertainty. To update the interpolated GEBCO grid, the Kalman gain is calculated for each raster cell and using the Kalman state equation a new bathymetry grid is produced. If other data is available, the process can be applied recursively with other depth and uncertainty grids, allowing the Bayesian combination of any number of bathymetry datasets for the site. To validate the method, the improvement in RMSE is calculated between the resulting bathymetry grid and previously validated, high-accuracy survey data. The validation has been applied at several global test sites to verify that the method is generalizable to other regions. Validation sites are chosen based on the availability of validation data from either USGS survey or survey data from Van Oord projects. The approach was found to improve RMSE compared to validation data by up to 34% in some test sites. However, other sites showed marginal improvement, or increased RMS error. The results of this research could allow easier methods of characterizing nearshore bathymetry in remote areas. It could also be extended to include temporal variation – as more bathymetric data becomes available, it could be used to measure the dynamic changes of coastal systems. However, the method is limited by strict water clarity requirements and missing data due to atmospheric conditions. Despite these limitations, it could potentially be expanded to create a downscaled global bathymetry dataset of clearwater areas.

The wave attenuation of vegetation plays an increasingly important role in flood control in coastal areas. Past studies have found that the interaction of waves with vegetation mainly depends on hydraulic conditions and vegetation characteristics. Therefore, it is necessary to build vegetation models and quantify vegetation characteristics related to wave attenuation. Mangroves are one of the typical tropical intertidal vegetation. This study aimed to test the potential of using a low-cost, convenient smartphone-based structure-from-motion with multi-view stereo-photogrammetry (SfM-MVS) to accurately measure mangrove parameters related to wave attenuation.

SfM-MVS is a computer vision technique in which the point cloud coordinates of an object can be calculated from a series of 2D photos to generate a 3D point cloud model. This study first tested the optimal photography distance （about 25cm） and optimal weather conditions （cloudy and no sunlight） using the smartphone-based SfM-MVS method. Then, based on the optiaml usage conditions, 3Dpoint cloud models of 10 individual mangrove samples were reconstructed using this method, then the mangrove parameters related to wave attenuation were estimated according to the model: linear parameters (tree height, crown diameter, stem diameter, branches diameter) and the frontal area at a certain height. The true values of these parameters were measured using traditional hand measurements to evaluate smartphone-based SfM-MVS-derived parameter estimates.

The results show that the estimation of the linear parameters of the mangroves generally achieves high accuracy (RMSE of tree height, canopy diameter, stem diameter and thick branch diameter are all lower than 15%). There were significant negative biases in the estimates of tree height and crown diameter, and no significant biases in the estimates of stems and branches. The results of linear regression show that there is a strong positive correlation between the estimated values of all parameters and the true values. There are large errors and negative biases in the estimates of the frontal area at different heights. Overall, RMSE of frontal area at a certain height is 45.58% with a bias of -38.83%. This result showed that the SfM-MVS model resulted in a large underestimation of the frontal area at each height. A series of analyses showed that the main reason for the large error in the frontal area at a certain height was that the terminal branches with the lowest branch order (smallest diameter) were difficult to visualize in the SfM-MVS model. And this part of the branches actually occupies a large proportion of the frontal area.

This study demonstrates that smartphone-based SfM-MVS is capable of estimating mangrove tree height, canopy diameter, stem diameter, and thick branch diameter. Its accuracy is comparable to other existing methods such as TLS, ALS, camera-based SfM-MVS. However, the resolution is insufficient for very thin branches (<=5mm), which makes the method inaccurate in estimating the frontal area at a certain height. Factors such as photography distance and ambient lighting can affect the accuracy of the model. Compared with the currently used remote sensing technologies such as TLS, the smartphone-based SfM-MVS has the advantages of low cost, high flexibility, and low difficulty for those who lack professional knowledge or training, which makes it an alternative with great potential.

Mangroves trap sediment and are the first coastal defence line for many coastal areas. Unfortunately, mangrove coasts worldwide are eroding due to deforestation, exposing local communities to flood hazards. In Demak, Indonesia, a Building with Nature approach was chosen to counteract erosion. Permeable dams were built on the foreshore to attenuate waves and restore the sediment balance. The dams have increased the bed level locally and mangroves expand after construction. A new project called MuMaCo (Mussels as Mangrove facilitators for Coastal defence) is launched to integrate mussel aquaculture into the mangrove rehabilitation project in Demak. Mussels increase the roughness and diameter of the bamboo poles, which could increase their wave attenuation capacity. Moreover, mussel culture gives the local communities an economic incentive to sustain the structures. This thesis describes and quantifies how mussels' growth influences the forces acting on bamboo poles. Small-scale experiments are performed in the wave flume of the Delft University of Technology on a scale of 1:3 and 1:6. Physical models were used for experiments with steady flow and waves. The steady flow experiments cover a range of Reynolds (Re) numbers between 10^3 and 10^4 to seek the drag crisis. Single mussel covered cylinders for both scales are compared to smooth cylinders and cylinders with an equivalent diameter. For the wave experiments, cnoidal waves with Keulegan-Carpenter ($KC$) numbers ranging from 3 to 113 that correspond with measured waves in Demak are chosen. Moreover, only mussel covered cylinders are compared to a smooth cylinder for a scale of 1:6. During the experiments, the flow velocity, force, and surface elevation are measured, and the drag and inertia coefficients are obtained with the help of the Morison equation. The drag coefficient shows a clear relationship with the Reynolds numbers for steady flow. Although the drag coefficients display the same qualitative behavior as in other studies in the literature, the drag coefficients of the smooth cylinder are more than 40 % larger than in the literature. This is probably due to large variations in the offset of the velocity meters (EMS) during the experiments. The large mussels show higher drag coefficients than the smooth cylinder. For the wave experiments, the drag coefficients show good correspondence to other studies in the literature, but the inertia coefficients are a factor two larger than expected for smooth cylinders. Treating the peak and trough of the cnoidal wave as individual sinusoidal waves shows similar results and suggest that cnoidal waves can be represented by KC numbers, as it is done for linear waves. The best fit to the literature values was found by solving the Morison equation with the measured force with the depth-integrated velocity squared and acceleration from the Fenton theory. This suggests that the results of the wave experiments have been uncertain due to inaccuracies in the EMS recordings. This thesis presents a method to schematize mussels for laboratory experiments and provides a qualitative comparison of the forces acting on poles with and without mussels

To estimate wave attenuation by mangrove forests, trees are often schematized as uniform cylinders (over the height) representing a tree’s stem. However, trees have more complex geometrical features that influence the interaction between waves and tree structures. Recent studies have shown that the frontal surface area distribution over the height Av(z) is a crucial parameter for estimating wave attenuation by vegetation (Kalloe et al., 2022; van Wesenbeeck et al., 2022) because it can account for complex geometrical features. This study aims to model the complex geometry of the Avicennia marina mangrove species. The research question then becomes:

How to construct geometrical tree models of Avicennia marina vegetation and how to obtain the projected frontal surface area distribution over the height, Av(z)?

In this study, manual measurements were performed to obtain tree structure parameters. Both canopy and root measurements were conducted for Avicennia marina vegetation with varying characteristics (age and density). Two saplings (approximately 1.5 years old) with variable canopy densities and two young trees (around five years old) with varying canopy densities were measured. We stored canopy measurements in a so-called tree data structure consisting of nodes (representing the branches) that contain information about the individual branches, such as branch orders, -lengths and -diameters and edges, which are links that establish direct relations from one branch to another. After that, we developed a search tree algorithm to loop through all tree data, compute parameters of interest and store the results in assigned data arrays. Parameters of interest to obtain after the data analysis were branch dimensions and diameter ratios of branches (between various branch classes). This information was necessary to create a blueprint for constructing geometrical tree models.
Tree modelling started with the construction of a root (pneumatophore) model. Additionally, the frontal surface area of these roots was computed and displayed as a function of the height. In addition to the root model, we constructed two canopy models. The first model is based on relations between branches and can be called deterministic or dependent (canopy model 1). The second canopy model (canopy model 2) generates branch dimensions based on the normal distribution of branch diameters and is, therefore, more probabilistic with branches independent of each other. Both canopy models construct branches based on information travelling from preceding branches. The models account for the proper placement of branches within 3D space by rotations and translations. The algorithm computes and outputs the projected frontal surface area over the height of a system of branches for a given direction (XZ-plane projection or YZ-plane projection). We validated the two canopy/tree models against validation measurements. Three trees were divided into seven vegetation layers, and branches were registered that intersected with the layers. As a result, estimation could be made on the frontal surface area per layer.

This study found that the frontal surface areas due to roots and canopies are significant and are well represented by the parameter Av(z). The contribution of the roots and canopy cannot be neglected in modelling wave dissipation by vegetation. The contribution of smaller branches to the total Av is significant, proving that considering only the tree stem is an underestimation. Moreover, the research shows that it is possible to develop a geometrical tree model based on a set of measurements and design rules that follow from observations, at least for the considered tree species. We could extrapolate and interpolate our results to generate tree models for a wide range of tree ages. Additionally, it is possible to create a forest by generating multiple trees.

Both tree models (1 and 2) showed little differences in Av(z) during the model validation process. Moreover, the validation measurements led, in general, to an overestimation of the total frontal surface area. Consequently, model validation was inconclusive regarding both tree models. However, we found that constructing tree models according to tree/canopy model 1 is preferred because it resembles an L-system more and is more practically applicable in computer models. We can improve future tree models by collecting more measurements regarding branch structures and root distribution as a function of tree age. This will result in increased model reliability.

Coastal flood risk is expected to increase over the 21st century as a result of climate change and economic growth, which makes low-lying regions especially vulnerable. Global screening techniques are needed for a more widespread use of NBS in these flood prone coastal regions. This research expands on the current assessments done by developing a quantitative global screening method that evaluates the costs and benefits for two defence approaches; 1) increasing the dike height, 2) a hybrid solution that includes increasing of the dike height in combination with restoring mangroves and/or corals. The screening method is based on Van Oord’s Climate Risk Overview tool, in which, globally, coastal hotspots are indicated that have a predefined risk of flooding in the 21st century. The steps added by my screening method include; 1) determining which
NBS can be applied depending on the local physical conditions, 2) determining the costs for both NBS and conventional hard solutions, 3) determining the increase/decrease in flood risk of the different interventions for current and future conditions, 4) monetizing additional benefits that NBS provide, 5) assessing the benefits and costs to determine if NBS are the most optimal solution. The results of this global method are inherently limited by several simplifying assumptions and by the lack of high resolution local data, which influences the cost/risk estimates and corresponding site identification. For 2.6-3.3% of the coastal hotspots, NBS can reduce the investment costs in addition to being cost-beneficial. There is potential for expanding this work by adding sea grasses, salt marshes and oyster reefs as vegetated foreshore systems, and by including more thresholds to make the criterion for potential sites to apply NBS more strict.

The risk of flood risk is increasing with global trends such as rising sea levels, land subsidence, increasing populations in coastal areas and economic growth. Traditional solutions to reduce flood risk are a levee or a dam; however, the research on hydraulic engineering is increasingly promoting nature-based solutions for flood protection. Salt marshes and mangroves can attenuate waves and could thus help to reduce failure probability. This research focuses on the attractiveness of mangroves in flood risk reduction. The essence of the reasoning followed in this research is that mangroves in front of a levee enable a lower levee and therefore reduce costs while maintaining the same failure probability. There are three aspects related to this assessment: the biological behavior of mangroves; the physical behavior of waves and storm surge in a mangrove forest; and the economics of flood risk, levees, and mangroves. Mangroves grow under specific conditions, such as high temperatures, saline water with fresh water input, between mean sea level and high tide, and with low wave impact. Mangroves attenuate waves, with the attenuation rates depending on mangrove height, stem diameter and density, in addition to the water depth, wave height and wave period. Lastly, the costs of restoring mangroves and building levees have been considered. In this thesis a method has been developed to define the optimal configuration of a levee-mangrove system. The goal is to reach a desired safety level while keeping costs as low as possible. Costs consist of building a levee, restoring mangroves, and the expected annual damage and maintenance. This depends on the ratio of mangrove and levee costs, the ability of mangroves to attenuate waves, and levee characteristics. Although all variables have equal significance in defining the mangrove forest width, the variety in levee and mangrove costs and significant wave height are the variables most likely to affect the optimal mangrove forest width. Mangroves are only useful to decrease the height of waves, thereby reducing wave run-up. This wave-attenuating effect decreases exponentially with the mangrove forest width. all Based on the literature, when considering common values for levee costs and mangrove restoration costs, levee characteristics and wave attenuation, wave attenuation is strong enough such that the optimal mangrove forest width is larger than zero. The costs of restoring mangroves depend on the required measures to enable mangroves to grow back. Hydrological restoration involves returning the mangrove area to the natural condition where mangroves are able to grow. This could, for example, be restoring a fresh water source that has been blocked by human intervention. If hydrological restoration is required and can be done cheaply, then this is the most effective option. Planting mangroves can also be a cost-effective option. Sheltering the mangrove area by using a permeable structure requires more financial resources. If large-scale filling or excavation is required, costs may increase significantly, and it is likely to be too expensive to use mangroves in flood-risk reduction. However, this cost assessment may change if the ecosystem services of mangroves are taken into account. As a rule of thumb, for mangroves to be economically effective, restoration costs [USD/m/m] in case of a 1 m wave height should remain below 0.003 times the variable levee costs [USD/m/m]. This value increases linearly with the wave height. For levee costs of 1 million USD/km/m, of which 0.6 million USD/km/m variable costs, the mangroves restoration costs should not exceed 0.18 USD/m/m, or 18,000 USD/ha. For Kaback, Guinea, the optimal mangrove forest width and height of the levee are assessed. These are 900 meter and 1.1 meter respectively, with the levee located just behind the mangroves. 900 meter is the maximum width possible, considering the physical conditions where mangroves grow. Since mangroves are growing back naturally already, costs for mangroves restoration is limited to fixed costs. The model developed in this study can be used to create a ``mangrove opportunity map”. This map can indicate—based on physical attributes—the costs, hydraulic conditions such as storm surge and wave height, and whether mangrove restoration for flood risk reduction is effective. Governments or organizations such as the World Bank can use this method to explore whether mangrove-based strategies are an option. Further research can focus on improving the cost estimates on levees and mangroves. In this study, costs are assumed to be linear with the levee height or mangrove area. In practice, levee costs might especially increase exponentially with the levee height, which would make mangroves more effective.

Degrading mangrove forests and coinciding erosive coastlines is an urgent global concern. Mangroves are essential for their interaction with hydrodynamic and sediment processes at mangrove-mud coasts. Earlier on, solutions were sought in building ’hard’ structures, such as concrete sea walls, to lower incoming wave energy and enhance sedimentation to restabilize erosive coastlines and bring back mangroves. As these approaches proved to be counterproductive and even accelerate destabilization of the coastline, nature-based solutions might provide a new path to a durable solution. A pilot project was initiated in Demak, Indonesia, where several permeable brushwood and bamboo dams were constructed near the receding coastline. The open structure of the dams allows sediment to flow through, while they decrease wave heights by dissipation. This creates calmer conditions behind the dams and allows mud to settle. The deposition of fine sediments enhances a rise in nearshore bedlevel and provides nursery ground for mangroves to reestablish, realizing a first step towards rehabilitation of the mangrove ecosystem and restabilizing the coastline. A conceptual 2DH process-based model, using Delft3D FM, was created to analyse the effect of permeable structures under changing boundary conditions at various shorelines. Three boundary conditions were varied to see the influence on dam performance: wave height, wave direction and suspended sediment concentration. A decrease or increase in wave height resulted in similar rise in bedlevel elevation behind the dams. Without the dams, an increase in wave height increased the tidal flat elevation and steepened the foreshore, inducing a concave profile shape. Placing the dams on the tidal flat induces extra rise in elevation, but won’t mitigate the erosion of the foreshore. Smaller wave heights tend to reshape the profile towards a more convex profile. When dams are implemented on, an increase in bedlevel behind the dams occurs. The waves stir up sediment at the tidal flat boundary which are redistributed by the tidal currents forming a more convex profile. The dams could be placed best close to the shoreline to allow for the natural redistribution of the sediment when at the same time induce a rise in bedlevel for mangroves to reestablish. Altering the nearshore sediment supply affects the dam performance significantly. The dam performance increases for lower sediment supplies. Dams reduce erosion due to decreased sediment input, but it is likely a short-term solution. For higher sediment supplies, the coastline can more effectively restore by itself and the dams reduce in efficacy. The model results show an increase in dam performance for increasing wave angles (shore-normal to shore-parallel). The bed shear stress is decreased more effectively for smaller wave angles, but also reduce the sediment concentration behind the dams. With the many distinctive boundary conditions at mangrove-mud coasts in mind, the simplified model setup is made easily adaptable to enable future use of the model. Based on the model setup for Demak and the model results in this research, an improvement on the computational grid is suggested before applying the model to other coastal sites.

In recent years, the interest in integrating shore protection with the local ecosystems has increased. In comparison with the traditional reinforced embankments, integrated shores form a gradual transition from land to water where shore vegetation can establish itself. These nature-friendly shores have a positive impact upon the water quality, flora and fauna and the amenities of the shore. Some of the benefits of vegetation are its capability of reducing the hydrodynamic loads on the shore and its ability to increase the soil strength against erosion. Both effects have been investigated in detail in previous research and have been implemented for coastal protection designs in sandy coastal settings. But a designing tool for cohesive shorelines in lake environments is still missing. In this research, the different aspects important for the erosion of a vegetated cohesive shoreline are studied and the first steps towards a process-based design tool are taken. The model results show that the dominant processes for erosion can be found at the point of wave breaking and at the start of the run-up, as both combinations give the highest induced bed shear stresses. This can be used for a strategic placement of vegetation to dampen the wave impact and reinforce the soil through the roots. There are situations in which a partially vegetated shore is sufficient to withstand the daily wave attack. This allows the vegetation to grow naturally to full strength, which is required in a storm situation. In this way a financial benefit can be reached as well as a healthier vegetated shore, as a large part of the vegetation has grown naturally.

Mangrove forests, which serve as a natural sea defence, have been degraded by human action during the last decades. To protect and recover these areas, different types of permeable structures consisting of bamboo have been proposed and applied. However, these structures are currently based on engineering judgement, as design rules are not available. The goal of this research is to make a step forward in the design optimization of permeable structures and gain a better understanding of the processes causing the wave dissipation inside the structure. In this study, scale experiments are conducted in the wave flume at Delft University of Technology. An array of aluminum cylinders is used as a schematization of the structure, with an element diameter of 4 cm and a minimum spacing of 2 cm. The tested wave height is 0.13 m,with a water depth of 0.6 m for the first set of experiments. These experiments evaluated wave transformation through a selected number of configurations. The water depth was 0.55 m for the second set, where the velocities and forces were also measured inside the structure. As the applied wave periods are short (T = 1 − 2 s), the tested wave conditions are in the range of small KC-numbers (4 < KC < 13). The first part of this research focuses on effect of different configurations and arrangements on the amount of energy dissipation, by measuring the incoming and reflected wave heights in front of and behind the structure. For the short waves, the horizontal arrangements dissipate more energy, as energy is dissipated by both the vertical and horizontal drag forces. However, the effect diminishes with increasing wave period. Considering the total dissipation and the amount of dissipation per element, the placement of the elements in rows perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation is found to be the most effective. To study the effect of the element diameter on the dissipation, the results are compared with previous research by Haage (2018) on a model with a diameter and spacing of 2 cm. As with the change in diameter also the structure porosity changed, a direct comparison was not possible and a comparison based on a simplified drag coefficient is done. No direct effect of the diameter is observed, as the obtained drag coefficients show the same trend and magnitude when plotted against an adapted Keulegan-Carpenter number (KC∗), which is based on the element spacing instead of diameter. Small KC∗-numbers result in large drag coefficients,which decrease when KC∗ increases. The second part of this research focuses on the processes inside the structure that cause the energy dissipation. A force and velocity sensor are applied at three locations inside the structure in separate experiments, to determine the relation of the force and velocity inside the structure with the undisturbed values. Two methods are applied for the analysis, based on two different principles. Method 1 is based on the assumption of a constant pair of force coefficients and an increase in velocity inside the structure, method 2 is based on the assumption of a constant velocity and an increase in force coefficients inside the structure.By comparing both methods, it is found that an increase in velocity is the most important factor for the increase in drag force, which is the driving factor for the energy dissipation. It is also found that the amplification factor for the velocity is dependent on both the structure porosity and frontal porosity.

Due to the removal of mangrove forests, coastal zones can suffer from severe erosion. One of the proposed solutions is the construction of permeable structures. This study aims to optimise the design of permeable (brushwood) structures in order to restore the sediment balance and encourage mangrove re-establishment on tropical mud coasts. Preferably wave transmission should be low in order to create a calmer climate behind the structure. In that way sediment is able to settle down, which could lead to a recovery of the mud profile. It is also preferred that reflection by the structure is low. High reflection rates cause scour holes that lead to instability of the structure. Furthermore, scour holes could hinder future mangrove re-establishment. Aiming to achieve low reflection and transmission rates, the dissipation inside the structure has to be as high as possible. Experiments were conducted in the 40 meter wave flume at the Environmental Fluid Mechanics Laboratory at TU Delft. The permeable structure was schematized as an array of cylinders. With the physical scale model various effects could be tested, including the porosity, structure width, arrangement, orientation, etc. The tests were done for 5 different wave cases, from which the wave energy distribution over reflection, dissipation and transmission was determined. The existing brushwood structures require intensive maintenance. This is partly due to the sinking of the material into the soft mud. Also, the brushwood material washes away often as it is lighter than water and difficult to constrain in vertical direction. An alternative design that requires less maintenance would be preferred. Therefore, it was interesting to see whether a comparable amount of wave dissipation could be achieved by using vertical elements only. One important finding is that in more shallow water regions, vertical and horizontal orientations have similar dissipation rates. In water regions that go more towards deep water, the horizontal structures have higher dissipation rates. This can be explained by the relative importance of the horizontal and vertical velocities due to the wave motion. In deep water vertical velocities are relatively high. As the horizontal elements have more exposure to this component in comparison to the vertical elements, they provide more dissipation. In shallow water the relative importance of the vertical velocities is lower, which explains the similar dissipation rates of the two orientations. The analytical model of Dalrymple (1984) was used to describe the energy dissipation through the structures. Drag coefficients were derived by using the calibration method. For KC<15 the drag coefficients start increasing. This is possibly due to the relative importance of the inertia force. Comparing the drag coefficients to the ones derived from direct force and velocity measurements in previous studies showed relative high values. This could be due to an underestimation of the horizontal velocity due to the wave motion. The velocity that is used is the undisturbed velocity in front of the structure. However, the velocity inside the structure might be higher as the flow accelerates in between the gaps of the elements. Furthermore, the wave cases in this research are in the Stokes 2nd and 3rd order region, indicating that the waves cannot be fully described by linear wave theory. The inertia, permeability and non-linear effects among other possible effects are not included in the analytical model of Dalrymple. Therefore, the drag coefficients do not only represent drag forces, but also other processes. To gain more insight on the physical mechanisms that affect the wave energy dissipation, it is recommended to test the same scale model with direct force and velocity measurements.