A set of scale-model tests was carried out at the wave basin of the Leibniz University Hannover to extend the range of wave steepness values analysed in run-up, overtopping and armour layer stability studies, focusing on oblique extreme wave conditions and on their effects on a gentler slope breakwater’s trunk armour and roundhead. The paper describes the model set-up and operation concentrating on the measurement techniques used in those tests, namely on the innovative techniques for armour layer damage characterization. @en

This paper describes the Numerical and Physical Modelling components of the main project entitled "Viability study of the artificial surfing reef of S. Pedro do Estoril". These studies aim to establish the main characteristics (dimensions, orientation and location) of the artificial surfing reef for S. Pedro do Estoril and to analyze its hydrodynamic peifonnance for different incident wave conditions. The main conclusions of both studies were that the reef solution permits the improvement of the surf conditions in the area of S. Pedro do Estoril especially for the most frequent wave in the region. However, in both studies some problems related with strong reflection and vortices in the reef's corners where detected and should be improved in the final solution.@en

This paper describes the experiments performed at the National Laboratory for Civil Engineering (LNEC) aiming at simulating, in a flume, the wave propagation along a constant slope bottom that ends on a sea wall coastal defence structure, a common structure employed in the Portuguese coast. The objective of these tests is to calibrate the parameters of FUNWAVE, a Boussincsq type model, for wave propagation in coastal regions. This is the first step in the validation of a methodology to combine numerical and physical models in the study of the interactions between beaches and structures. This work is performed in the framework of the Composite Modelling of the Interactions between Beaches and Structures (CoMIBBs) project, a joint research activity of the HYDRALAB III European project.@en

This paper presents a description of a finite element numerical model, BOUSS1D_iw based upon the Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu (1993). Special attention is given to the procedure implemented into this model for wave generation, by using a source function. In order to validate BOUSS1D_iw model, two literature test cases were chosen. First the BOUSS1D_iw model (one dimensional version) is applied to the simulation of the wave propagation over a constant depth flume considering a regular wave generated in the centre of the flume, to test the source function procedure implemented into the model. After, it is applied to the experiments performed by Dingemans (1994): i.e., the wave propagation over a submerged sill, to analyze the model's performance when simulating the main phenomena involved in nearshore wave propagation, with special attention to nonlinear effects. Comparison between the BOUSS1D_iw numerical results, experimental results and results from another numerical model (Kirby et al (1998)), for time series of water surface elevation and power spectrum, are presented and discussed.@en