Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m³ over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m³, representing 1.7% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS.

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A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed-level changes and sediment composition were collected at a man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering the Marsdiep basin that is part of the Dutch Wadden Sea. The dataset consists of (1) current, wave and turbidity measurements from a dense cross-shore array and a 3 km alongshore array; (2) sediment composition data from beach surface samples; (3) high-temporal-resolution RTK-GNSS beach profile measurements; (4) a pre-campaign spatially covering topobathy map; and (5) meteorological data. This paper outlines how these measurements were set up and how the data have been processed, stored and can be accessed. The novelty of this dataset lies in the detailed approach to resolve forcing conditions on a sheltered beach, where morphological evolution is governed by a subtle interplay between tidal and wind-driven currents, waves and bed composition, primarily due to the low-energy (near-threshold) forcing. The data are publicly available at 4TU Centre for Research Data at: https://doi.org/10.4121/19c5676c-9cea-49d0-b7a3-7c627e436541 (Van der Lugt et al., 2023).@en

Projections of high rates of sea level rise have stimulated proposals for adaptation strategies with increasingly high nourishment volumes along sandy beaches. An underlying assumption is that coastal profiles respond rapidly to nourishments by redistributing sediments towards a (new) equilibrium shape. However, this perception may not be valid when high volumes of nourishment are applied, as the profile shape may then undergo significant deformation. Current state-of-the-art modelling techniques often concentrate on a single spatio-temporal scale, either lacking the necessary temporal horizon or failing to provide the required level of cross-shore detail. This article introduces Crocodile, a diffusion based cross-shore model designed to bridge the gap between short- and long-term nourishment modelling. The model simulates the effects of nourishment strategies on coastal volume, coastline position and beach width over a decadal timeframe. It incorporates different elements which compute cross-shore diffusion, sediment exchange with the dune and longshore sediment losses. To test the model performance, a series of idealized nourishment scenarios are examined, along with three case studies along the Dutch coast with different nourishment strategies over the past few decades. The modelled coastal volume, shoreline position and beach width strongly resemble the observations with only a 12% overestimation in profile volume and 13% underestimation in beach width. Averaged over selected periods of nourishment, trends and trend reversals between different strategies are well replicated with slight overestimation for coastal volume trends by 1.5m³/m/yr(10%), while beach width trends are underestimated by 0.2m/yr (15%). Given that the added nourishment volumes are typically in the order of 100m³/m, these model errors are considered sufficiently low to conclude that Crocodile effectively simulates variations in coastal volume, coastline position and beach width over a decadal timeframe in response to different nourishment strategies. Therefore, Crocodile can facilitate the evaluation of future nourishment strategies.

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Accelerated sea level rise prompts the upscaling of nourishment strategies, either through larger individual nourishment volumes or increased frequency of implementation. In such strategies, the nourished sand may lack time to effectively redistribute in the designated timeframe, leading to significant deformation of the profile over multiple nourishment cycles. This study quantifies subsequent effects, focusing on profile steepening, nourishment lifetimes, and the feasibility of operational objectives. We simulated two common nourishment strategies at a Dutch case study location using the cross-shore morphological model Crocodile over a 50-year timespan under sea level rise rates of 2–32 mm/year. The choice of strategy led to a variation of up to 75% in the total amount of sand used. Our results show increasing profile deformation with nourishment volume applied and duration of the nourishment strategy, with sand accumulating in the nourished section and little dissipation to the lower shoreface. The consequent profile steepening leads to reduced nourishment lifetimes by up to 30%. Additionally, under high sea level rise rates, more erosive coasts experience a reduction in nourishment lifetimes to annual intervals, while less erosive areas require up to four times more sand than currently needed. These findings illustrate key dilemmas in the formulation of future nourishment strategies and highlight the importance of optimizing these strategies to account for sea level rise.

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Wave nonlinearity plays an important role in cross-shore beach morphodynamics and is often parameterized in engineering-type morphodynamic models through a nonlinear relationship with the Ursell number. It is not evident that the relationship established in previous studies also holds for sheltered sites with fetch-limited seas as they are more prone to effects of local winds and currents, the waves are generally steeper, and the beaches are typically reflective. This study investigates near-bed orbital velocity nonlinearity from wave records collected at two sheltered beaches in The Netherlands and contrasts them to earlier observations made along the exposed, wave-dominated North Sea coast. Our observations at sheltered beaches show that the Ursell number has comparable skill in predicting wave nonlinearity as it has on previously studied exposed coasts. However, the orbital velocities at sheltered coasts are more asymmetric for the same Ursell number than on exposed coasts. When exposed coast data were examined for moments with comparable high-steepness waves, a similar effect on asymmetry was observed. In addition, following and opposing winds were found to have a clear relationship with total nonlinearity, while they did not affect the phase between skewness and asymmetry at the sheltered beaches. Refitting the free parameters of an Ursell-based predictor improved the bias for the asymmetry parameterization. Whether this has implications for modeling of the magnitude of wave-nonlinearity-driven sediment transport using engineering type models is strongly dependent on the sediment transport formulation used, as these formulations depend on additional calibration coefficients too.

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Nearshore berms or shoreface nourishments are sandy coastal interventions in which sediment is placed seaward of the land-water interface. These projects rely on natural forces to redistribute sediment in the nearshore zone and mitigate erosion, increase beach width or both. However, there is still limited knowledge on the connection between the morphodynamic development of the nourishment body and the changes to the beach landward to it. Several aspects make it difficult to connect the changes in the sub-aqueous and sub-aerial zones of the cross-shore profile, amongst others the lack of data and the small signal in beach changes with respect to the natural variability. We hypothesize that this obscurity also originates from the deep placement of most nearshore berms, making them mobilized very infrequently. This study examines observations of a unique shallow nearshore berm at New Smyrna (FL) where about 350,000 m3 of sediment dredged from a nearby inlet was deposited in the nearshore zone by moving the end of an outflow pipe along a 400-m section of coast. @en

Projections of high rates of sea level rise have stimulated proposals for adaptation strategies with increasingly high nourishment volumes. Nourishment strategies involving higher sand volumes can be accomplished by increasing the volume of individual nourishments or by decreasing the time interval between successive nourishments. The optimal placement of the sediment volumes in the cross-shore and alongshore to attain our coastal management goals is still under debate. From a long term, large scale perspective only the added sediment volume may be considered, regardless of the placement. A widely accepted perception is that coastal profiles respond to nourishment by rapid equilibration to an equilibrium shape including the added sand volume. However, the timescale of the redistribution of the sediment may be slower than the desired spreading rate of the added sediment, causing sediment to accumulate at some parts of the profile, while leaving other elevations sediment starved. This research aims to examine decadal-scale coastal profile response to nourishment strategies upscaled with sea level rise (SLR) whereby potential nourishment strategy impacts for beach width (fluctuations), dune growth potential and momentary coastline are mapped. @en

We investigate pathways of sediment diffusion for a Gaussian-shaped sand mound subjected to monochromatic waves. Our unique results nearly close the sediment budget by quantifying each of the sediment transport processes responsible for mound diffusion associated with sediment flux due to slope driven transport and ripple migration. Downslope ripple progression was observed as ripples formed at the mound top advanced down the side slopes in a direction perpendicular to wave propagation. Once ripples formed on the sides of the mounds the ripples became pathways for sediment flux from the top to the bottom of the mound, persisting even after ripples reached the base of the mound as sediment avalanching due to gravity and mound slope. Lateral ripple migration caused ripples to migrate along the sides of the sand mound in a direction parallel to wave propagation. Once ripples reached the base of the mound, lateral migration of ripples caused spreading of sand around the sides of the mound. Lateral ripple migration was largely driven by ripple splitting caused by a large downslope sediment flux from the center of the mound that generated ripples with longer wavelengths than wave orbital hydrodynamics could support. To restore equilibrium between sediment and flow conditions, ripples with longer wavelengths continuously split and migrated laterally around the mound. Our results reflect the importance of slope driven transport, bed fluidization, and ripple dynamics on the larger scale diffusivity and suggest that slope driven and ripple driven sediment fluxes should be more explicitly included in sediment transport formulations.

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Traditionally, independent tools have been used to simulate wave- or wind-driven processes to simulate coastal morphology change. Coupled models that cross the land-sea division and integrate these collective processes can increase our knowledge on complex morphodynamic interactions and improve predictions of the foreshore, beach, and dune evolution. In this paper we present the initial development of a coupled modelling framework capable of numerically predicting the integrated development of coastal landforms, including both marine and aeolian processes, by using a generic model coupling approach that leverages the Basic Model Interface. The aim of this tool is to support the interdisciplinary design of Nature-based Solutions on varying spatiotemporal scales. As shown for the Marker Wadden case, the implemented model functionalities allow for the numerical description of the coast in an integrated manner and thus create opportunities for modeling coastal landform of the nearshore, beach, and dune that would not be possible with a discrete model approach. Specifically, by coupling two discrete numerical models, AeoLiS and XBeach, the aeolian and marine interaction resulted in a more realistic behavior of processes in the intertidal area. After coupling, bed levels compared better to the observations compared to the superpositioned results of both separate model components, which showed the added value and potential of coupled modelling. These findings have implications on the ability to predict spatio-temporal integrated coastal development – including these interacting aerodynamic, hydrodynamic, and ecological processes, which are essential in the interdisciplinary design of NbS.@en

Coastal communities around the world are facing increased coastal flooding and shoreline erosion from factors such as sea-level rise and unsustainable development practices. Coastal engineers and managers often rely on gray infrastructure such as seawalls, levees and breakwaters, but are increasingly seeking to incorporate more sustainable natural and nature-based features (NNBF). While coastal restoration projects have been happening for decades, NNBF projects go above and beyond coastal restoration. They seek to provide communities with coastal protection from storms, erosion, and/or flooding while also providing some of the other natural benefits that restored habitats provide. Yet there remain many unknowns about how to design and implement these projects. This study examines three innovative coastal resilience projects that use NNBF approaches to improve coastal community resilience to flooding while providing a host of other benefits: 1) Living Breakwaters in New York Harbor; 2) the Coastal Texas Protection and Restoration Study; and 3) the South Bay Salt Pond Restoration Project in San Francisco Bay. We synthesize findings from these case studies to report areas of progress and illustrate remaining challenges. All three case studies began with innovative project funding and framing that enabled expansion beyond a sole focus on flood risk reduction to include multiple functions and benefits. Each project involved stakeholder engagement and incorporated feedback into the design process. In the Texas case study this dramatically shifted one part of the project design from a more traditional, gray approach to a more natural hybrid solution. We also identified common challenges related to permitting and funding, which often arise as a consequence of uncertainties in performance and long-term sustainability for diverse NNBF approaches. The Living Breakwaters project is helping to address these uncertainties by using detailed computational and physical modeling and a variety of experimental morphologies to help facilitate learning while monitoring future performance. This paper informs and improves future sustainable coastal resilience projects by learning from these past innovations, highlighting the need for integrated and robust monitoring plans for projects after implementation, and emphasizing the critical role of stakeholder engagement.@en

Field observations of small scale seabed morphology were obtained over 4 weeks at two locations separated 66 m along a cross-shore transect during the 2014 MEGAPEX Experiment conducted as part of the longer term Sand Engine mega-nourishment project along the North Sea Coast of The Netherlands. The seafloor was continuously covered by dynamic bedforms with amplitudes ranging 0.02–0.40 m and wavelengths ranging 0.20–2.5 m. Ripple migration rates were up to 3.6 m/h, dependent on the energy of the waves and currents. Under the assumption of bedload dominant transport, cross-shore and alongshore sediment volume flux by ripples was estimated from observations at the spatially separated imaging locations. The average and maximum ripple sediment volume flux was found to be 0.22 and 1.7 m³/m/day, respectively, with larger fluxes during spring flood tides and storm wave conditions. The daily averaged fluxes were usually oriented about 30° north of shore-normal, moving in the same direction as a nearby transverse sandbar migration direction. Estimated gradients in the sediment flux within the surfzone were computed from bed level change measurements of the inner surfzone including a larger scale transverse sandbar measured from subsequent jetski surveys. We find that the estimated gradients in surfzone sediment flux are conceivably driven by small variations in the sediment flux driven by sand ripple migration, supported by our observations of ripple driven sediment flux at the two ripple imaging stations. A simple conceptual model is presented that shows how small scale bedforms may contribute to the growth and decay of larger scale bathymetric features, such as sandbars. Results suggest that sediment flux by small scale sand ripples and megaripples could significantly contribute to larger scale morphologic development in the surfzone.

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Coasts form the universal stage on which people interact with the global ocean. Our history is inextricably intertwined with the seashore, being a rich tapestry of archaeological sites that paint a vivid picture of people hunting, foraging, fishing and scavenging at the edge of the sea. Seascapes inspire diverse art forms celebrated through the ages. The world’s sandy beaches have a flummoxing duality of anthropocentric purpose—ranging from the horrors when being theatres of war to first love under a rising moon. ‘Man’s Love of the Sea’ continues to draw people towards the shore: the narrow coastal strip contains everything from holiday cottages to mega-cities. This coastal concentration of the human population is problematic when shorelines erode and move inland, a geological process fastened by climate change. Society’s response is often a heavy investment in coastal engineering to complement and enhance the natural storm protection capacity of beaches and dunes. The coast’s immense cultural, social, and economic significance are complemented by a wealth of natural riches. In the public’s eye, these ecological values can pale somewhat compared with more imminent ecosystem services, particularly protecting human properties from storm impacts. To re-balance the picture, here we illustrate how peer-reviewed science can be translated into ‘cool beach facts’, aimed at creating a broader environmental appreciation of ocean shores. The colourful kaleidoscope of coastal values faces a veritable array of anthropogenic stressors, from coastal armouring to environmental harm caused by off-road vehicles. Whilst these threats are not necessarily unique to coastal ecosystems, rarely do the winds of global change blow stiffer than at the edge of the sea, where millions of people have created their fragile homes on shifting sands now being increasingly eroded by rising seas. Natural shorelines accommodate such changing sea levels by moving landwards, a poignant and powerful reminder that protecting the remaining natural land is primus inter pares in coastal management. There is no doubt that coastal ecosystems and coastal communities face august trials to maintain essential ecosystem services in the face of global change. Whilst bureaucracies are not always well equipped to counteract environmental harm effectively, using measures carrying a social license, many communities and individuals have encouragingly deep values connected to living coastlines. Building on these values, and harnessing the fierce protective spirits of people, are pivotal to shaping fresh models that can enhance and re-build resilience for shores that will continue to be a ‘baroque embarrassment of coastal riches@en

Sandy nourishments can provide additional sediment to the coastal system to maintain its recreational or safety function under rising sea levels. These nourishments can be implemented at sandy beach systems, but can also be used to reinforce gray coastal infrastructure (e.g., dams, dikes, seawalls). The Hondsbossche Dunes project is a combined shoreface, beach, and dune nourishment of 35 million m3 sand. The nourishment was built to replace the flood protection function of an old sea-dike while creating additional space for nature and recreation. This paper presents the evolution of this newly created sandy beach system in the first 5 years after implementation based on bathymetric and topographic surveys, acquired every three to six months. A significant coastline curvature is created by the nourishment leading to erosion in the central 7 km bordered by zones with accretion. However, over the five-year period, net volume losses from the project area were less than 5% of the initial nourished sand volume. The man-made cross-shore beach profile rapidly mimics the characteristics of adjacent beaches. The slope of the surfzone is adjusted within two winters to a similar slope. The initially wide beaches (i.e., up to 225 m) are reduced to about 100 m-wide. Simultaneously, the dune volume has increased and the dune foot migrated seaward at the entire nourished site, regardless of whether the subaqueous profile gained or lost sediment. Our results show that the Hondsbossche Dunes nourishment, built with a natural slope and wide beach, created a positive sediment balance in the dune for a prolonged period after placement. As such, natural forces in the years after implementation provided a significant contribution to the growth in dune volume and related safety against flooding.@en

Observations from wave basin experiments and wave-resolving numerical simulations demonstrate the effect of wave-current interaction on shear stress around a sandy mound. Observations from the wave basin show that the mound deformation rate and morphological patterns depend on the mixture of waves and currents in the incident flow conditions. A SWASH nonhydrostatic numerical model was used to expand the parameter space of wave-current conditions observed in the flume and characterize the response of the near-bed shear stress to the mound. The model was validated with observations from wave-alone, current-alone, and wave-current flume tests and then ran for a suite of numerical flow conditions which isolate the impact of the ratio of wave-current energy on the bed shear stress. Results show how the current-to-wave ratio impacts the spatial heterogeneity of shear stress across the mound, with the region of shear stress intensification around the mound and the location of the peak shear stress becoming asymmetric with more mixed wave-current flows. These results show the nonlinear response of shear stress patterns to combined wave-current flows and how these patterns may impact eventual sediment transport and mound evolution.

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Plastics originating from land are mainly transported to the oceans by rivers. The total plastic transport from land to seas remains uncertain because of difficulties in measuring and the lack of standard observation techniques. A large focus in observations is on plastics floating on the water surface. However, an increasing number of observations suggest that large quantities of plastics are transported in suspension, below the water surface. Available underwater plastic monitoring methods use nets or fish traps that need to be deployed below the surface and are labor-intensive. In this research, we explore the use of echo sounding as an innovative low-cost method to quantify and identify suspended macroplastics. Experiments under controlled and natural conditions using a low-cost off-the-shelf echo sounding device show that plastic items can be detected and identified up to 7 m below the river surface. Eight different debris items (metal can, cup, bottles, food wrappers, food container) were characterized based on their reflection signature. Reflectance from plastic items diverged significantly from organic material and non-plastic anthropogenic debris. During a multi-day trial field expedition in the Guadalete river, Spain, we found that between 0.8 and 6.3 m depth considerable quantities of plastics are transported. As most plastic monitoring and removal strategies focus on the upper layer below the surface (up to approximately 1.5 m depth), a substantial share of the total plastic transport may be neglected. With this paper we 1) demonstrate that echo sounding is a promising tool for underwater plastic monitoring, and 2) emphasize the importance of an improved understanding of the existing plastic loads below the surface.

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Beach nourishment — the addition of sand to increase the width or sand volume of the beach — is a widespread coastal management technique to counteract coastal erosion. Globally, rising sea levels, storms and diminishing sand supplies threaten beaches and the recreational, ecosystem, groundwater and flood protection services they provide. Consequently, beach nourishment practices have evolved from focusing on maximizing the time sand stays on the beach to also encompassing human safety and water recreation, groundwater dynamics and ecosystem impacts. In this Perspective, we present a multidisciplinary overview of beach nourishment, discussing physical aspects of beach nourishment alongside ecological and socio-economic impacts. The future of beach nourishment practices will vary depending on local vulnerability, sand availability, financial resources, government regulations and efficiencies, and societal perceptions of environmental risk, recreational uses, ecological conservation and social justice. We recommend co-located, multidisciplinary research studies on the combined impacts of nourishments, and explorations of various designs to guide these globally diverse nourishment practices.@en

Recently, mega feeder nourishments have been proposed as a new strategy to nourish sediment-starving beaches. This strategy involves the placement of a large, concentrated sediment volume at a single location along the coast. Wind, waves and currents act as the natural agents to spread the sediment alongshore over the course of years to decades. This article presents the morphological development of the first full-scale implementation of this strategy, examining the 20 × 106 m3“Sand Engine” feeder nourishment and its impact on adjacent coastal sections. The analysis is based on 37 high-resolution topographical surveys, executed in a 17 km coastal cell. These unique data describe the alongshore spreading in the first five years and the response at different elevations of the coastal profile. The analysis shows rapid transformation of the nourishment’s planform shape, changing rapidly into a smooth (Gaussian-like) shape which is gradually extending alongshore over time. Within five years, sediment has been distributed to a 5.8 km stretch of coast from the initial 2.2 km peninsula footprint. Changes in cross-shore and alongshore extent varied strongly over depth, with the strongest morphological response at the mean sea level (MSL) isobath and limited morphodynamic activity at deeper water, below −8 m MSL. This depth-dependent response has resulted in decreasing subtidal slopes in eroding areas, accretive areas contrastingly show a slope increment. These results yield important insights in nourished sediment mobility at different depths near the coast and distribution over a larger coastal cell. However, this single-design assessment cannot address the wide range of mega nourishment design parameters essential for morphological development of its coastal cell. This work suggests limiting cross-shore extent, since it is uncertain whether nourished sediment at deeper water will become active in the coastal system. A continuation of the current monitoring and future research might shed more light on this.@en

Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free incident IG waves is thus ignored. Here, in-situ observations of IG waves with wave periods between 100 s and 200 s at three measurement stations in the North Sea in water depths of O(30) m are analyzed to explore the potential contribution of the free and bound IG waves to the total IG wave height for the period from 2010 to 2018. The bound IG wave height is computed with the equilibrium theory of Hasselmann using the measured frequency-directional sea-swell spectra as input. The largest IG waves are observed in the open sea with a maximum significant IG wave height of O(0.3) m at 32 m water depth during storm Xaver (December 2013) with a concurrent significant sea-swell wave height in excess of 9 m. Along the northern part of the Dutch coast, this maximum has reduced to O(0.2) m at a water depth of 28 m with a significant sea-swell wave height of 7 m and to O(0.1) m at the most southern location at a water depth of 34 m with a significant sea-swell wave height of 5 m. These appreciable IG wave heights in O(30) m water depth represent a lower bound for the expected maximum IG wave heights given the fact that in the present analysis only a fraction of the full IG frequency range is considered. Comparisons with the predicted bound IG waves show that these can contribute substantially to the observed total IG wave height during storm conditions. The ratio between the predicted bound-and observed total IG variance ranges from 10% to 100% depending on the location of the observations and the timing during the storm. The ratio is typically high at the peak of the storm and is lower at both the onset and waning of the storm. There is significant spatial variability in this ratio between the stations. It is shown that differences in the directional spreading can play a significant role in this. Furthermore, the observed variability along the Dutch coast, with a substantially decreased contribution of the bound IG waves in the south compared to the northern part of the Dutch coast, are shown to be partly related to changes in the mean sea-swell wave period. For the southern part of the Dutch coast this corresponds to an increased difference with the typically assumed equilibrium boundary condition although it is not clear how much of the free IG-energy is onshore directed barring more sophisticated observations and/or modeling.

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Beach scarps are nearly vertical seaward facing sandy cliffs within the cross-shore beach profile. These features are often associated with eroding (nourished) coastlines and can reach heights of O(2–3 m). An analysis of a six-year dataset of beach scarp presence at the nourished Sand Engine beach shows that the formation of beach scarps at the nourishment is linked to mildly erosive (summer storm) conditions, whereas destruction is often related to extremely erosive (winter storm) conditions. Additional experiments were carried out showing the formation, migration, and destruction of scarps from artificially constructed mounds with linear slopes. The field experiments show that steep initial slopes are more susceptible to beach scarp formation. Video observations at these experiments show that the scarp toe level, where the vertical slope meets the gently sloping beach, is related to the high wave runup events. The commonly used 2% exceedance wave runup estimates can therefore be used to predict the final elevation of the scarp toe. The strong connection of maximum runup elevation with the scarp toe elevation provides a direct relation between the final scarp height through nourishment platform height and hydrodynamic conditions. High platform nourishments will promote the formation of beach scarps and steep initial profiles increase the speed at which scarps form. This study suggests that by adjusting the design of beach nourishments, beach scarp formation and persistency can be limited by regulating the natural destruction of these features.@en

Sand nourishments are increasingly applied as adaptive coastal protection measures. Predictions of the evolution of these nourishments and their impact on the surrounding coastline contain many uncertainties. The sources that add to this uncertainty can be delineated between intrinsic and epistemic uncertainty, i.e. inevitably in the system or related to knowledge limitations. Effects of intrinsic uncertainty (e.g. due to wave climate variability) on coastal evolution can be significant. In studying these effects, it has often been assumed that intrinsic uncertainty is dominant over epistemic uncertainty (e.g. introduced by the model), yet the magnitude of both contributions have not been explicitly quantified to assess the validity of this assumption. This paper examines the relative importance of intrinsic and epistemic uncertainty in coastline modeling of a large-scale nourishment. It uses a probabilistic framework in which sediment transport is considered to be a function of random wave forcing (intrinsic) and model (epistemic) uncertainty, calculating transport using a one-line model. The test case for this analysis is the mega-nourishment, the Sand Engine, located in the Netherlands. The applied wave climate variability is obtained from long term wave observations, whereas model uncertainty is quantified using the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method relying on monthly observations. We find that the confidence intervals on predicted volume losses increase substantially when including both intrinsic and epistemic sources of uncertainty. A global sensitivity analysis shows that ignoring model uncertainty would underestimate the variance by at least 50% after a 2.5-year simulation period for the Sand Engine, hence producing significant overconfidence in the results. These findings imply that for coastal modeling purposes a dual approach should be considered, evaluating both epistemic and intrinsic uncertainties.@en