The role of infragravity waves (IG waves) in beach and dune erosion or in flood hazard has been extensively studied on open beaches. In contrast, the detailed characterization of IG waves and their contribution to the Total Water Level (TWL) along the shore of inlets received little attention so far. In such environment, there is a real lack of in situ observations of waves and hydrodynamics conditions at appropriate spatial and temporal coverage to study the role of infragravity (IG) waves (long waves of frequency typically ranging between 0.004 Hz and 0.04–0.05 Hz) on coastal hazards. This contribution is based on field observations collected at the Arcachon Lagoon, a shallow semi-enclosed lagoon connected to the ocean by a large tidal inlet, located in southwest France. Analyses combine observations made at several locations during storm events within the inlet and the lagoon with numerical simulation with the XBeach surfbeat model to explore the spatial variability of IG waves and simulate observed, historical, and idealized storm conditions. The results show that IG waves are substantial during typical winter storms at the inlet and range from H _m0 = 0.8 to over 1 m across the ebb delta and about 0.4–0.6 m in the inner part of the inlet. At the lagoon entrance, IG waves remain substantial (about 0.1–0.2 m) and decrease to a few centimeters at the lagoon shore. The spatial variability and magnitude of IG waves along the inlet coast, simulated for the historical storms, are quite comparable to those observed during classical winter, and do not increase linearly with offshore wave energy. However, both observations and simulations reveal local amplifications of IG waves in the inner part of the inlet, especially along the sheltered coast were IG waves dominate the variance of free surface elevation, reaching about 0.6–0.7 m during common storms and more than 1 m for an extreme storm scenario. A numerical experiment indicates that IG wave reflection from one coast to the other contributes up to 35–40% of the measured IG wave height at a hot spot located along the sheltered coast. Finally, the contribution of IG waves to TWL at the shore on both sides of the inlet has been estimated to be about 0.4–0.6 m for a common storm and 0.6–0.9 m for an extreme scenario, locally peaking at 0.74 and 1.1 m respectively and overpassing the contribution of wave-induced setup. This work provides new insights into the contribution of IG waves to TWL and its implications for overtopping flooding hazard and overwash processes at large inlets, highlighting the need to consider IG waves in Early Warning Systems or hazard mapping for flood prevention plans in these environments.

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Tidal inlets are transitional area between the ocean and an estuary or a lagoon. They are characterised by very complex hydro-morphodynamics processes, resulting from the interaction between tidal currents and waves with large and rapid water level changes. The coastline around the inner part of the inlet and more generally the entire lagoon often host important economic and touristic activities. In these environments, the studies of hazards associated with energetic events are mainly based on modelling approaches. However, the phase-averaged numerical models typically used for large-scale coastal applications exclude infragravity waves (long waves ranging from several tens of seconds to several minutes, noted hereinafter IG) and phase-resolving model are too computationally expensive for such large domains. Therefore, the propagation of waves from the open sea to the lagoon and in particular the characterisation of IG waves are still poorly understood (Bertin et al., 2018). To study the amplitude and spatial variability of IG waves in the Arcachon lagoon during storms, the Xbeach model (Roelvink et al., 2009) was implemented in surfbeat mode (SB mode).@en

Overtopping wave loads on vertical structures on top of a dike have been investigated in several small scale experiments in the past. A large-scale validation for a mild foreshore situation is still missing. Hence the WALOWA experimental campaign was carried out to address this topic. In the present paper the objectives of the WALOWA project are outlined in detail, the model and measurement set-up described and the test program presented. Furthermore, preliminary results featuring a single 1000 irregular waves test of the test program are highlighted. This includes the study of the mild and sandy foreshore evolution by comparing profiles before and after the test execution. The profile measurements are obtained with a mechanical profiler. The wave parameters offshore and at the dike toe are numerically simulated using a SWASH model. The numerical results are validated against the measurements. Finally, the force and pressure time series of the waves impacting against the wall are processed and filtered. The load cell measurements and the time series of integrated pressures are compared to each other and for each impact event the maximum force is derived.@en