Thomas A.A. Adcock
21 records found
1
Authored
Wave breaking is a complex physical process about which open questions remain. For some applications, it is critical to include breaking effects in phase-resolved envelope-based wave models such as the non-linear Schrödinger. A promising approach is to use machine learning to ...
Wave breaking is the main mechanism that dissipates energy from ocean waves by wind. Its effects on the frequency spectrum cause a downshift of the spectral peak and dissipation of the total energy of the spectrum. Various reduced-form wave breaking models have been developed ...
Axisymmetric standing waves occur across a wide range of free surface flows. When these waves reach a critical height (steepness), wave breaking and jet formation occur. For travelling surface gravity waves, wave breaking is generally considered to limit wave height and revers ...
Abrupt changes in water depth are known to lead to abnormal free-surface wave statistics. The present study considers whether this translates into abnormal loads on offshore infrastructure. A fully non-linear numerical model is used which is carefully validated against experim ...
We perform simulations of random seas based on narrow-banded spectra with directional spreading. Our wavefields are spatially homogeneous and nonstationary in time. We truncate the spectral tail for the initial conditions at different cutoff wavenumbers to assess the impact of ...
Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions
Application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation
Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. ...
Harmonic-induced wave breaking due to abrupt depth transitions
An experimental and numerical study
We simulate focusing surface gravity wave groups with directional spreading using the modified nonlinear Schrödinger (MNLS) equation and compare the results with a fully-nonlinear potential flow code, OceanWave3D. We alter the direction and characteristic wavenumber of the MNL ...
Recent experimental and numerical studies of surface gravity waves propagating over a sloping bottom have shown that an increase in the probability of extreme waves can be triggered by depth variations in sufficiently shallow waters. This phenomenon is studied here by means of ...
Uncertainty affects estimates of the power potential of tidal currents, resulting in large ranges in values reported for sites such as the Pentland Firth, UK. Kreitmair et al. (2019, R. Soc. open sci. 6, 180941. (doi:10.1098/rsos.191127)) have examined the effect of uncertaint ...
We study the evolution of unidirectional water waves from a randomly forced input condition with uncorrelated Fourier components. We examine the kurtosis of the linearised free surface as a convenient proxy for the probability of a rogue wave. We repeat the laboratory experime ...
Linearization of the wave spectrum
A comparison of methods
Many ocean engineering problems involve bound harmonics which are slaved to some underlying assumed close to linear time series. When analyzing signals we often want to remove the bound harmonics so as to "linearise" the data or to extract individual bound harmonic components ...
High wind speeds generated during hurricanes result in the formation of extreme waves. Extreme waves by nature are steep meaning that linear wave theory alone is insufficient in understanding and predicting their occurrence. The complex, highly transient nature of the directio ...
Freak or rogue waves are so called because of their unexpectedly large size relative to the population of smaller waves in which they occur. The 25.6 m high Draupner wave, observed in a sea state with a significant wave height of 12 m, was one of the first confirmed field meas ...
For sufficiently directionally spread surface gravity wave groups, the set-down of the wave-averaged free surface, first described by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (J. Fluid Mech. vol. 13, 1962, pp. 481-504), can turn into a set-up. Using a multiple-scale expansion for two cro ...