Rip currents are one of the most dangerous coastal hazards for swimmers. In order to minimize the risk, a coastal operational-process based-model system can be utilized in order to provide forecast of nearshore waves and currents that may endanger beach goers. In this paper, an operational model for rip current prediction by utilizing nearshore bathymetry obtained from video image technique is demonstrated. For the nearshore scale model, XBeach1 is used with which tidal currents, wave induced currents (including the effect of the wave groups) can be simulated simultaneously. Up-to-date bathymetry will be obtained using video images technique, cBathy2. The system will be tested for the Egmond aan Zee beach, located in the northern part of the Dutch coastline. This paper will test the applicability of bathymetry obtained from video technique to be used as input for the numerical modelling system by comparing simulation results using surveyed bathymetry and model results using video bathymetry. Result s show that the video technique is able to produce bathymetry converging towards the ground truth observations. This bathymetry validation will be followed by an example of operational forecasting type of simulation on predicting rip currents. Rip currents flow fields simulated over measured and modeled bathymetries are compared in order to assess the performance of the proposed forecast system.@en

Very low frequency (VLF, 0.001–0.005 Hz) waves are important drivers of flooding of low-lying coral reef-islands. In particular, VLF wave resonance is known to drive large wave runup and subsequent overwash. Using a 5 month data set of water levels and waves collected along a cross-reef transect on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands, the observed VLF motions were categorized into four different classes: (1) resonant, (2) (nonresonant) standing, (3) progressive-growing, and (4) progressive-dissipative waves. Each VLF class is set by the reef flat water depth and, in the case of resonance, the incident-band offshore wave period. Using an improved method to identify VLF wave resonance, we find that VLF wave resonance caused prolonged (∼0.5–6.0 h), large-amplitude water surface oscillations at the inner reef flat ranging in wave height from 0.14 to 0.83 m. It was induced by relatively long-period, grouped, incident-band waves, and occurred under both storm and nonstorm conditions. Moreover, observed resonant VLF waves had nonlinear, bore-like wave shapes, which likely have a larger impact on the shoreline than regular, sinusoidal waveforms. As an alternative technique to the commonly used Fast Fourier Transformation, we propose the Hilbert-Huang Transformation that is more computationally expensive but can capture the wave shape more accurately. This research demonstrates that understanding VLF waves on reef flats is important for evaluating coastal flooding hazards@en

Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) waves and wave setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG waves and wave setup is lacking, while they are potentially important parameters for coastal risk assessment. In this study, the storm impact model XBeach is extended with formulations for attenuation of sea-swell and IG waves, and wave setup effects in two modes: the sea-swell wave phase-resolving (nonhydrostatic) and the phase-averaged (surfbeat) mode. In surfbeat mode, a wave shape model is implemented to capture the effect of nonlinear wave-vegetation interaction processes on wave setup. Both modeling modes are verified using data from two flume experiments with mimic vegetation and show good skill in computing the sea-swell and IG wave transformation, and wave setup. In surfbeat mode, the wave setup prediction greatly improves when using the wave shape model, while in nonhydrostatic mode (nonlinear) intrawave effects are directly accounted for. Subsequently, the model is used for a range of coastal geomorphological configurations by varying bed slope and vegetation extent. The results indicate that the effect of wave-vegetation interaction on wave setup may be relevant for a range of typical coastal geomorphological configurations (e.g., relatively steep to gentle slope coasts fronted by vegetation). @en

Knowledge of the actual condition of hydrodynamics in the nearshore and coastal area is essential for coastal monitoring activities. To this end, a coastal operational model system can serve as a tool in providing recent and up-to-date, state-of-the-art hydrodynamics along the coast. In this paper, we apply CoSMoS (Coastal Storm Modeling System), a generic operational wave and tide-surge modelling system applied here to predict waves and water levels along the Dutch coast. The CoSMoS application is not limited to storm impact prediction on the Dutch coast, but can also be applied to other coastal hazards such as rip currents and coastal flooding, in other environments. In this paper, we present the set-up of the CoSMoS system and a validation of the wave and surge model, with deep-water wave buoy data and tidal gauge measurements as ground truth validation material. The evaluation is presented as monthly error measures between computed parameters and observed ones. Hindcast results over the whole year of 2009 show that the simulated wave parameters and surge elevation from the CoSMoS are in good agreement with data, with average root mean square (rms) error over the year of 0.14 m for the surge elevation and 0.24 m for the significant wave height. It is noted that there is a tendency of the wave model to underestimate the height of northerly waves with lower frequencies (swell). Additionally, when a wave separation algorithm is applied on the overall spectrum, results show consistent underestimation of the swell component by the model, which for the Dutch coast will mainly come from the north, where the North Sea is open to the Atlantic Ocean. In the proposed model system, the swell boundary can have a significant effect on the simulated wave results, suggesting room for improvement for the swell boundary conditions to the north and the swell propagation within the Dutch Continental Shelf Model. Finally, we show that in forecast mode, CoSMoS can provide reasonably good wave and surge prediction.

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This paper demonstrates the potential use of nearshore bathymetry estimated from video data in a coastal operational model for the Dutch Coast, which provides daily forecast of waves, water levels and (rip) currents. Two video techniques to obtain beach bathymetry from video data- Beach Wizard and CBathy are validated against jet ski surveyed bathymetry. Both methods show good agreement with surveyed data, and bathymetric features of the beach are adequately produced. To assess the applicability of video-derived bathymetry for the purpose of rip current predictions, a model is built for Egmond aan Zee in The Netherlands, in which rip current predictions based on video-derived bathymetry are compared with those based on the jetski survey. Results show that predicted maximum mean offshore-directed (rip) velocities are in good agreement when using surveyed bathymetry (reference model) and video-derived bathymetry. Finally, to address the rip current forecasting skill, this local model is forced by wave boundary conditions obtained from a larger-scale wave prediction model, in addition to the bathymetry from video. Results show that useful information can still be obtained regarding the rip currents' flow where maximum offshore-directed velocities obtained from the predictive model resemble adequately rip currents pattern in the reference model. This paper will discuss each component of the model system and the validation result on hindcasting and forecasting rip currents.@en

Low-frequency (infragravity) wave dynamics on a fringing coral reef were investigated using the numerical model XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009). First, the skill of the model was evaluated in one- and two-dimensions based on its predictions of short waves (0.04-0.2. Hz), infragravity waves (0.004-0.04. Hz) and water level measurements (tidal and wave setup) obtained during a 2009 field study at Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia. The model calibration was sensitive to friction coefficients for short waves and current/infragravity bed friction, which were assumed independent in this model study. Although the one-dimensional cross-shore model captured the gradients in the dominant hydrodynamic processes at the site, a high current/IG bed friction coefficient was required. This resulted in an overestimation and a phase lag between the observed and predicted wave setup signal. In the two-dimensional model, a lower (more realistic) current/infragravity wave friction coefficient was required to achieve optimum performance due to the presence of significant reef and lagoon mean flows in the model, which led to reduced setup across the reef. The infragravity waves were found to propagate from the surf zone across the reef in a dominantly cross-shore direction towards the shore, but with substantial frictional damping. The infragravity waves were strongly modulated also over the reef by tidal depth variations, primarily due to the variability in frictional dissipation rates when the total water depth over the reef varied. Two mean wave-driven circulation cells were observed in the study area, with cross-shore flow becoming more alongshore-dominated before exiting the system via the two channels in the reef. The results reveal that short waves dominated bottom stresses on the forereef and near the reef crest; however, inside the lagoon, infragravity waves become increasingly dominant, accounting up to 50% of the combined bottom stresses.@en

Rip currents are wave-induced and off-shore directed flows which occur frequently in the surf zone and can pose a serious threat to swimmers. While the behaviour of rip currents has been studied in swell-dominated environments, less is known about their characteristics in wind-sea dominated environments. This study aims to improve the knowledge on rip currents in these environments such as the Dutch coast. In a field campaign at Egmond aan Zee (The Netherlands), Lagrangian velocities in the surf zone were measured with drifter floats. An extensive dataset of rip current measurements was collected from which parameters that initiate rip currents and affect their mean flow properties were identified. Numerical simulations with XBeach aided to understand and confirm the observations made in the field. A reduction of the hydrodynamic parameters along with simplification of the bathymetry in the model allowed for identification of the governing rip current parameters, which can be the basis for a warning system.@en

Low-frequency (infragravity) wave dynamics on a fringing coral reef were investigated using the numerical model XBeach (Roelvink et al, 2009). First, the skill of the one-dimensional model was evaluated based on its predictions of short waves (0.04-0.2 Hz), infragravity waves (0.004-0.04 Hz) and water level measurements (tidal elevation and wave setup) obtained during a 2009 field study at Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia. The model calibration was sensitive to friction coefficients for short waves and current / infragravity bed friction, which were assumed independent in this model study. The infragravity waves were found to be generated primarily in the surf zone through the breakpoint generation mechanism rather than through offshore forcing. The infragravity waves were also strongly modulated over the reef by tidal depth variations, primarily due to the variability in frictional dissipation rates when the total water depth over the reef varied. The results revealed that short waves dominated bottom stresses on the forereef and near the reef crest; however, inside the lagoon, infragravity waves become increasingly dominant, accounting up to 50% of the combined bottom stresses.@en