We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM^® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a (Formula presented.) turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for discriminating between air and water. Sediment transport is described in terms of bedload and suspended load transport. We show that the default divergence scheme in OpenFOAM can become numerically unstable and lead to negative sediment concentrations, and propose a solution to avoid this problem. The model performance is assessed in terms of surface elevation, flow velocities, runup, suspended sediment concentrations, bed profile evolution and sediment transport volumes by comparing with measurements of field-scale (wave height of 0.6 m) solitary waves. The model shows reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and predicts the correct sediment transport volumes, although the deposition is predicted more onshore compared to the measurements. This is partially attributed to an overprediction of the runup. The model shows that the suspended sediment concentration displays a strong vertical dependence. These results show the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone, particularly with respect to vertical structures in the flow and suspended sediment transport.

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To address the important research question of whether implicit (bottom friction) or explicit (stem drag) dissipation models are most appropriate for the prediction of wave attenuation due to aquatic vegetation, the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) spectral wave model has been extended with an explicit frequency-dependent dissipation model for submerged and emergent vegetation. The new explicit model is compared to existing explicit and implicit dissipation models in SWAN, and the distinguishing features of each of the dissipation models are quantified. The present work verifies the implementation of the new and existing dissipation models, outlines their distinguishing features, and compares model predictions against experimental data. The emphasis is on the transformation of the spectral wave periods Tm0;1 and Tm 1;0 over a canopy. Model evaluation based on academic and laboratory cases allows for recommendations regarding applicability of the three dissipation models, where the new method has the broadest applicability, since it bridges the gap in applicability between the other two dissipation models. The implementation of Jacobsen, McFall, and van der A (2019; A frequency distributed dissipation model for canopies; Coastal Engineering, 150, 135-146) is publicly available in SWAN version 41.31B.

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This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is employed to derive a set of quasi-Eulerian mean three-dimensional equations of motion, where effects of the waves are included through source terms. The obtained equations are expressed to the second-order of wave amplitude. Whereas the classical Eulerian-mean equations of motion are only applicable below the wave trough, the new equations are valid until the mean water surface even in the presence of finite-amplitude surface waves. A two-dimensional numerical model (2DV model) is developed to validate the new set of equations of motion. The 2DV model passes the test of steady monochromatic waves propagating over a slope without dissipation (adiabatic condition). This is a primary test for equations of mean motion with a known analytical solution. In addition to this, experimental data for the interaction between random waves and a mean current in both non-breaking and breaking waves are employed to validate the 2DV model. As shown by this successful implementation and validation, the implementation of these equations in any 3D model code is straightforward and may be expected to provide consistent results from deep water to the surf zone, under both weak and strong ambient currents.@en

Floating offshore wind platforms may be subjected to severe sea states, which include both steep and long waves. The hydrodynamic models used in the offshore industry are typically based on potential-flow theory and/or Morison's equation. These methods are computationally efficient and can be applied in global dynamic analysis considering wind loads and mooring system dynamics. However, they may not capture important nonlinearities in extreme situations. The present work compares a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT), based on the viscous Navier-Stokes equations, and a second-order potential-flow model for such situations. A comparison of the NWT performance with the experimental data is first completed for a moored vertical floating cylinder. The OC5-semisubmersible floating platform is then modeled numerically both in this nonlinear NWT and using a second-order potential-flow based solver. To test both models, they are subjected to nonsteep waves and the response in heave and pitch is compared with the experimental data. More extreme conditions are examined with both models. Their comparison shows that if the structure is excited at its heave natural frequency, the dependence of the response in heave on the wave height and the viscous effects cannot be captured by the adjusted potential-flow based model. However, closer to the inertia dominated region, the two models yield similar responses in pitch and heave.

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The work presents an experimental investigation into the motion of and hydrodynamic forces along a single flexible stem in regular waves. The experiment covers a large range in relevant non-dimensional parameters: the drag-to-stiffness ratio, the inertia-to-stiffness ratio, the Keulegan-Carpenter number and the Reynolds number. The two first parameters relate to the response of the stem in waves and thus account for material properties, while the two last parameters are relevant for hydrodynamic forces on the stem. The displacement of the stem was captured with a digital video camera and the displacement along the stem was captured for every 2.5 mm at 25 Hz. This unique laboratory data set allowed for the following analyses: (i) Determination of the relevant non-dimensional parameter to predict the stem motion and shape. (ii) A direct comparison between the measured force for mimics of two lengths (0.15 m and 0.30 m) illustrating the force reduction potential for flexible mimics. (iii) Direct evaluation of the average force coefficients (drag) and (inertia) for the flexible stems. (iv) The distributed external hydrodynamic loading and the internal shear forces were estimated from the laboratory experiments. The distribution of the shear force helped to understand the breakage mechanisms of flexible stems. (v) A linkage between phase lags and internal shear forces was suggested. The data set is considered valuable as validation material for numerical models of stem motion in waves.@en

In the densely populated Rhine-Meuse Delta in the Netherlands, deep scour holes develop very suddenly. The holes may form a potential risk for the stability of surrounding riverbanks, dikes, bridges, tunnels and buildings, risking flooding of the hinterland. Approximately 40% of the scour holes in the delta are found to be (partially) caused by the composition of the subsoil@en