The swash zone is an important region for the coastal morphodynamics. Often, model studies of the swash zone use depth-averaged models. These models typically assume a vertically uniform velocity and sand concentration for calculating the sand transport flux. However, this assumption is not always accurate in the swash zone. In order to investigate the vertical distribution of velocity and sand, we use a depth-resolving model that is able to capture these vertical variations. We simulate the flow and suspended sediment transport induced by bichromatic waves using a 2DV depth-resolving RANS model. Our verification of the model shows that special care needs to be taken to deal with bubbles in 2DV simulations. Furthermore, we show that turning off the (Wilcox, 2006, 2008) limiter for turbulence, increases the modelled turbulent kinetic energy that is induced by wave-breaking, resulting in improved predictions of sediment concentrations. Using the depth-resolving model, we show that the vertical distribution of velocity and sand is far from uniform in the swash zone. The results show that if one assumes vertically uniform depth-averaged velocities and concentrations, one can overpredict the sediment flux by 50%.@en

In the Western Scheldt estuary, like in many estuaries, safe navigation, flood protection, and ecological targets require a balanced and sustainable sediment management. A thorough understanding of the morphodynamic functioning of the estuary and its response to changes in hydrodynamics (natural sediment transport) and large-scale interventions is imperative. This paper presents a detailed overview of over 65 years of morphological changes and a comprehensive sediment budget of the Western Scheldt estuary that is based on analysis of a unique series of frequent bathymetric surveys and historical data on human–sediment interactions of dredging, dredge disposal and sand mining. Solving the sediment budget reveals an annual sediment import of 2.2 million m3. The highest sediment imports occurred between 1980–1994 and 2005–2020 (2.9 and 3.7 million m3/year). A 1.3 million m3/year net export prevailed between 1994 and 2005. Natural variations in the hydrodynamics (e.g., tidal asymmetry and amplification) and sediment transports cannot explain the derived temporal variations in sediment import rates. Anthropogenic activities play a dominant role. Capital dredging of the main navigation channel has led to channel deepening and significantly increased dredge and disposal volumes. Disposal on tidal flats and in the secondary channel leads to a long-term storage of sand and, consequently, a local increase in bed level and a sand deficit in the remainder of the system that results in increased sediment imports. Large-scale disposal in the western part of the estuary can (temporarily) reverse the sediment exchange between the estuary and its mouth area, as observed between 1994 and 2005. Apparently, large-scale anthropogenic reallocation of sediment by dredging and/or disposal as part of navigation channel improvement, sand mining or nourishment essentially influences the morphological development of the Western Scheldt estuary. This reveals responsibilities as well as opportunities of sediment management for the Western Scheldt and similar estuaries worldwide.@en

We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM^® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a (Formula presented.) turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for discriminating between air and water. Sediment transport is described in terms of bedload and suspended load transport. We show that the default divergence scheme in OpenFOAM can become numerically unstable and lead to negative sediment concentrations, and propose a solution to avoid this problem. The model performance is assessed in terms of surface elevation, flow velocities, runup, suspended sediment concentrations, bed profile evolution and sediment transport volumes by comparing with measurements of field-scale (wave height of 0.6 m) solitary waves. The model shows reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and predicts the correct sediment transport volumes, although the deposition is predicted more onshore compared to the measurements. This is partially attributed to an overprediction of the runup. The model shows that the suspended sediment concentration displays a strong vertical dependence. These results show the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone, particularly with respect to vertical structures in the flow and suspended sediment transport.

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Dutch coastal policy aims for a safe, economically strong and attractive coast. This is achieved by maintaining the part of the coast that support these functions; the coastal foundation. The coastal foundation is maintained by means of sand nourishments. Up to now, it has been assumed that net transports across the coastal foundation's offshore boundary at the 20 m depth contour are negligibly small. In the framework of the Coastal Genesis 2.0 program we investigated sand transports across this boundary and across other depth contours at the lower shoreface. This paper presents a computationally efficient approach to compute the annual sand transport rates at the Dutch lower shoreface. It is based on the 3D Dutch Continental Shelf Model with Flexible Mesh (3D DCSM-FM), a wave transformation tool and a 1DV sand transport module. We validate the hydrodynamic input against field measurements and present flow, wave and sand transport computations for the years 2013–2017. Our computations show that the net annual sand transport rates along the Dutch coast are determined by peak tidal velocities (and asymmetry thereof), density driven residual flows, wind driven residual flows and waves. The annual mean alongshore transports vary along the continuous 20 m depth contour. The computed total cross-shore transports are onshore directed over the continuous 20 m, 18 m and 16 m depth contours and increase with decreasing water depth. The effect of density difference and wind on the 3D structure of the flow and on the sand transports cannot be neglected along the Dutch lower shoreface. Our computations show that excluding the effect of density results in a significant decrease of the onshore directed transports. Also switching off wind largely counteracts this effect. The net cross-shore transport is determined by a delicate balance between gross onshore and offshore transports, where wave conditions are important. We show an example for Scheveningen where the net cross-shore transport is onshore directed when including all wave conditions but would be offshore directed when excluding waves higher than 3.5 m. In contrast, at Callantsoog the highest waves contribute more to the offshore directed transports. These results suggest that storm conditions play an important role in the magnitude and direction of the net annual transport rates at the lower shoreface.

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