Safety assessments are taken every five years to examine whether the coast is safe enough. After investigation, it was found that one of the weak spots is the Hondsbossche and Pettemer Sea defence (from hereafter referred to as HPZ) which required reinforcement at this location.
...
Safety assessments are taken every five years to examine whether the coast is safe enough. After investigation, it was found that one of the weak spots is the Hondsbossche and Pettemer Sea defence (from hereafter referred to as HPZ) which required reinforcement at this location. Therefore, a mega nourishment was implemented in 2015 to ensure the safety of the hinterland. The implementation of this mega nourishment created the Hondsbossche Dunes (from hereafter referred to as HD). After the implementation of the mega nourishment, it was soon found that the width of the beach decreased. The beach width is defined as the horizontal distance between the waterline and the dune foot position which is defined at elevation NAP + 3.0 m. The decrease in beach width occurred mainly on the edges where there is a stronger curvature, so more change in shoreline orientation, compared to the other parts of the nourishment. As a result of the decrease in beach width, an additional nourishment was implemented in 2018 to meet the requirements. These are not the safety requirements but the beach width is important for recreation so the beach cannot be too narrow.
The aim of this research is to improve understanding of beach width reducing processes at curved coastlines to improve predictions of beach width on a scale of ~5 years after implementing a nourishment at the HD. The relationship between the curved coastline and long waves and its influence on the change in beach width was investigated. Special attention is given to the role of infragravity waves. Hereto the numerical model XBeach is used which can simulate morphodynamics with and without infragravity forcing. From the literature review, it follows that long waves, also called infragravity waves, are formed from small waves. A difference between infragravity waves and short waves is that the processes of the infragravity waves take place mainly in the surf zone and swash zone, while most of the short waves are dissipated in the surf zone and swash zone.
To determine the influence of coastline curvature and infragravity waves on beach width change, two types of models were run. The first model was a schematic model where an alongshore uniform coast is applied in the model to neglect the influence of alongshore variability in cross-shore profiles. In addition, multiple runs were performed varying the strength of the curvature and the mode (stationary mode, so without infragravity waves and groupiness, or surfbeat with infragravity waves) so that the results could be compared. This study showed that including infragravity waves results in a different predicted beach width change. In addition, stronger curvature leads to larger gradients in longshore sediment transport and thus the change in beach width.
The second model run was the HD’s complex model where the conditions as present in reality were applied, i.e., bathymetry and wave conditions. Based on the XBeach model of the HD, it can be concluded that the prediction is reasonably similar for the first year of the simulation. The first year of the simulation is the second year after the nourishment is implemented, i.e. 2016, so initial effects are not included in the result of the measurements. However, the predictions and measurements hardly match in the other years resulting in a very low correlation which follows from the validation.