Sandy beaches can be found all over the world and are on the interface between the sea and the land. Important functions of beaches are the protection of the inland to the forces of the sea and providing local opportunities in recreation. The impact of storm events on the beach is therefore an important topic of research especially with future climate change predicting more extreme events with the influence of Sea Level Rise expected to result in a worldwide decrease in beach area.The famous Copacabana beach, located at the South-Atlantic ocean is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Rio de Janeiro with thousands of visitors per year. The beach is characterized by its parabolic shape with rocky headlands on either sides. In July 2019 a storm event occurred at the beach with a 7-day period of energetic waves. This resulted in significant erosion along the whole beach up to 40 meters leaving not more than 10 meters of beach width in the South part of the beach. The period of erosion was followed up by a period with year-round average wave conditions resulting in rapid natural recovery with the beach returning to its original beach width within a period of 4 weeks. The focus of this research is on the cycle of erosion with subsequent recover which is important in having a long-term sustainable beach cycle.The history of Copacabana beach is marked by one major nourishment in 1970 which resulted in the 55 meter widening of the beach parallel avenue and an average widening of the beach of 35 meters. From 1970 onwards historically available satellite images show a stable beach behavior with the equilibrium profile of the beach showing smaller beach widths in the South compared to the North. A dataset of high resolution Sentinel 2 is analyzed in terms of beach width for a period of 4 years. This clearly shows the short-term variations in beach width of which most are the result of the impact of storm events. This highlights the impact of the July 2019 storm event showing rapid recovery in terms of beach width.Storm events are characterized by a 2 to 7-day period of energetic swell-dominated waves often from in between the South and SSE. The maximum wave height during the July 2019 storm event was of a yearly return period in combination with an erosional impact which was of lower frequency according to locals. What caused the big erosional impact was the long 7-day duration of the storm in combination with an extraordinary wave direction from the SE. Under this wave direction the South part of the beach is most vulnerable due to a convergence of wave energy as a result of bottom refraction. In combination with a lower equilibrium width in this part of the beach due to the lack of sand placement during the 1970 nourishment this part of the beach is most vulnerable to storm impact. The subsequent beach recovery process shows rapid beach width recovery with recovery rates up to 1.4m/day. This is the result of mild wave steepness due to the swell-dominated wave climate in combination with the equilibrium beach state characterized by an attached sandbar. Both these system characteristics are positively related to the recovery rates (Phillips et al., 2017). However, structural erosion is visible in terms of backbeach elevation in the South part of the beach which as of 16 months after the July 2019 erosion event shows no signs of recovery.To further test the beach vulnerability, the July 2019 storm and subsequent recovery period are modelled subsequentially with the XBeach Surfbeat and- stationary mode. With the use of scenario modelling an attempt is made to test the vulnerability related to wave characteristics, erosion/recovery duration and the frequency of storms. Judgement of the model performance resulted in good model applicability and realistic model results for the erosion simulation. The results confirm the highest impact is in the South part of the beach under a SE wave direction. Besides this, the impact of an increased wave height (resulting in a 21% increase in erosional volume with a 10% increase in wave height) is more significant along the whole beach compared to an increased extreme event duration (resulting in a 9% increase in erosional volume with a 20% longer duration). During periods of recovery the swash zone processes become more important. These processes are not well represented in XBeach. To compensate for these effects the Bermslope model can be used forcing the slope in the swash zone to a pre-defined value (Roelvink & Costas, 2017). The model results however still shows a limited interaction between the beachface and the sub-aquatic part of the beach resulting in accretion further offshore than is observed in reality. From this it is concluded that it is not possible to assess the beach vulnerability in relation to recovery rates with XBeach.The third and last part of this research looks into the future changes in beach vulnerability taking into account the effect of climate change. Local long term climate trends are analyzed with the use of multiple data sources. This results in a clear positive trend showing a future increase of mean wave height. For the other climate parameters like the extreme wave height, storm frequency and wave direction a wide range of trends is found. This often shows both a positive and negative trend among the available data. Within the range of future climate trends there is a clear indication of a future increase in beach vulnerability. Both an increase in the mean wave height as a potential increase in extreme wave heights has significant implications on the erosional quantities judging from the model results. Where a 10% increase in extreme event wave heights results in a 22% increase in erosional quantities according to the model results. With a possible eastward change of mean wave direction chances of SE directed storm events increases resulting in increased beach vulnerability in the South under convergence of wave energy. For Sea Level Rise the impact is relatively highest in the South of the beach with beach decay predictions being approximated at a maximum of 8.4 meters as of 2070 with the use of the Bruun rule (Bruun, 1962). From this it is concluded that the vulnerability of the South part of the beach is bound to increase the most in the future with also taking into account the structural backbeach erosion as a consequence of the July 2019 erosion event. Future interventions with the goal decreasing beach vulnerability should focus on either widening or further protecting the South part of the beach.

This thesis discusses the morphological modelling of the gravel revetment on artificial composite beaches. A composite beach is a combination of a sandy lower beach and a gravel upper beach. These beaches are found in nature, but can also be created artificially by placement of a gravel structure on a sandy beach. Artificial composite beaches are widely acknowledged as an effective type of shore protection against runup and overtopping (Blenkinsopp, 2016), but an assessment of such a beach with a numerical model has not been attempted yet.

Therefore this work explores to what extent the morphological developments of these artificial beaches can be modelled with a numerical model. The numerical models that were used in this work are XBeach and XBeach-G. The aim is to reproduce the short term (3 to 6 hours) cross-shore morphological developments of the DynaRev experiments (a series of physical model experiments to investigate the stability of an artificial composite beach under sea-level rise), with a focus on the beach section on which the gravel revetment is placed. The first step was to find the relevant processes that are missing in the currently available numerical models. The missing processes were identified by combining knowledge acquired through the modelling of composite beaches with the currently available models, substantiated by analysis of the DynaRev experiments and literature research.

It was concluded that the numerical models were lacking two important processes: namely the absence of a gravel transport formulation in XBeach and transport of sand in the gravel revetment. The missing processes were implemented into XBeach and the updatedmodel’s performances were verified with the DynaRev experiments as benchmark. The implementation of the XBeach-G gravel transport formulation in coherence with the existing XBeach code for sand transport required under-the-hood adaptations to improve the switches that are already in place for multiple sediment fractions. It was found that a combination of sand transport and gravel transport is possible, but this combination presents difficulties regarding suspended sediment transport in combination with the hydrodynamics and the groundwater dynamics.

The second process was transport of sand in the gravel revetment. This was first analysed by looking at the initial transport rates of sand inside the revetment with a newly introduced equation for transport of sandinside a filter layer (Jacobsen et al., 2017). It was shown that transport fluxes of sand inside the revetment are likely to occur as results of the groundwater dynamics. To see bed level changes due to these transport fluxes this transport equation needs to be implemented into the XBeach code. This was not possible with the current architecture of XBeach and the way it accounts for multiple fractions. Therefore a new accounting system for multiple fractions was introduced in this work and implemented in XBeach, named the two-line model. In this experimental model sand transport gradients in the revetment are translated into visible sinking of the revetment (erosion) and settling of sand within the gravel revetment (deposition). In the model’s current state the erosive locations appear to match with the DynaRev observations, whereas locations where deposition occurs are no match. The two-line model was sensitive and showed instabilities, mainly due to high groundwater velocities that were caused by wave breaking in themodel. The results of the experimental model can possibly be improved by including vertical groundwater velocities to model sand transports, possibly also in combination with the addition of suspended sediment transport of sand inside the revetment.