Correction to: Naturehttps://doi.org/10.1038/s41586-024-07886-z Published online 14 September 2024 In the version of the article initially published, there was a typographical error where in the Fig. 5 title, now reading “For 3D waves, breaking onset does not limit crest height,” the word “not” was missing. The error has been corrected in the HTML and PDF versions of the article.

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Floating marine litter is transported by several mechanisms, including surface waves. In studies of marine litter transport, the wave-induced drift is set to be equal to the Stokes drift, corresponding to the Lagrangian-mean wave-induced drift of an infinitesimally small tracer. Large-scale experiments are used to show how the wave-induced drift of objects of finite size depends on their size, density, and shape. We observe increases in drift of 95% compared to Stokes drift for discs with diameters of 13% of the wavelength, up to 23% for spheres with diameters of 3% of the wavelength, whereas drift is reduced for objects that become submerged such as nets. We investigate what these findings may imply for the transport of plastic pollution in realistic wave conditions and we predict an increase in wave-induced drift for (very) large plastic pollution objects. The different extrapolation techniques we explore to make this prediction exhibit a large range of uncertainty.

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Remote sensing technologies have the potential to support monitoring of floating plastic litter in aquatic environments. An experimental campaign was carried out in a large-scale hydrodynamic test facility to explore the detectability of floating plastics in ocean waves, comparing and contrasting different microwave and optical remote sensing technologies. The extensive experiments revealed that detection of plastics was feasible with microwave measurement techniques using X and Ku-bands with VV polarization at a plastic threshold concentration of 1 item/m² or 1–10 g/m². The optical measurements further revealed that spectral and polarization properties in the visible and infrared spectrum had diagnostic information unique to the floating plastics. This assessment presents a crucial step towards enabling the detection of aquatic plastics using advanced remote sensing technologies. We demonstrate that remote sensing has the potential for global targeting of plastic litter hotspots, which is needed for supporting effective clean-up efforts and scientific evidence-based policy making.

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Floating objects will drift due to the action of surface gravity waves. This drift will depart from that of a perfect Lagrangian tracer due to both viscous effects (non-potential flow) and wave–body interaction (potential flow). We examine the drift of freely floating objects in regular (non-breaking) deep-water wave fields for object sizes that are large enough to cause significant diffraction. Systematic numerical simulations are performed using a hybrid numerical solver, qaleFOAM, which deals with both viscosity and wave–body interaction. For very small objects, the model predicts a wave-induced drift equal to the Stokes drift. For larger objects, the drift is generally greater and increases with object size (we examine object sizes up to 10% of the wavelength). The effects of different shapes, sizes and submergence depths and steepnesses are examined. Furthermore, we derive a ‘diffraction-modified Stokes drift’ akin to Stokes (Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc., vol. 8, 1847, pp. 411–455), but based on the combination of incident, diffracted and radiated wave fields, which are based on potential-flow theory and obtained using the boundary element method. This diffraction-modified Stokes drift explains both qualitatively and quantitatively the increase in drift. Generally, round objects do not diffract the wave field significantly and do not experience a significant drift enhancement as a result. For box-shape objects, drift enhancement is greater for larger objects with greater submergence depths (we report an increase of 92% for simulations without viscosity and 113% with viscosity for a round-cornered box whose size is 10% of the wavelength). We identify the specific standing wave pattern that arises near the object because of diffraction as the main cause of the enhanced drift. Viscosity plays a small positive role in the enhanced drift behaviour of large objects, increasing the drift further by approximately 20%.@en

Experiments are contaminated by second-order error waves at sub- and super-harmonic frequencies when first-order wave generation is used. Herein, we investigate by experiment the implications of second-order wave generation theory for dynamic wave force and run-up on a vertical wall in shallow to intermediate water depth (k₀d=0.5−1.1). Results of short-duration experiments using focused wave groups generated according to first- and second-order theory are compared. We isolate linear, sub-, and super-harmonic contributions using combinations of inverted wave group time series and filtering. We derive theoretical predictions for narrow-banded second-order wave groups interacting with a vertical wall and use this to calculate depth-integrated force and run-up on the wall, which show close agreement with measured data. Comparisons reveal that sub-harmonic error waves are increasingly important in shallow depth, increasing wave run-up by up to 67% and dynamic force by up to 75% at k₀d=0.6 when compared to the case of correct (second-order) generation in a relatively short flume.

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Correct prediction of particle transport by surface waves is crucial in many practical applications such as search and rescue or salvage operations and pollution tracking and clean-up efforts. Recent results by Deike et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 829, 2017, pp. 364–391) and Pizzo et al. (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 49, no. 4, 2019, pp. 983–992) have indicated transport by deep-water breaking waves is enhanced compared with non-breaking waves. To model particle transport in irregular waves, some of which break, we develop a stochastic differential equation describing both mean particle transport and its uncertainty. The equation combines a Brownian motion, which captures non-breaking drift-diffusion effects, and a compound Poisson process, which captures jumps in particle positions due to breaking. From the corresponding Fokker–Planck equation for the evolution of the probability density function for particle position, we obtain closed-form expressions for its first three moments. We corroborate these predictions with new experiments, in which we track large numbers of particles in irregular breaking waves. For breaking and non-breaking wave fields, our experiments confirm that the variance of the particle position grows linearly with time, in accordance with Taylor's single-particle dispersion theory. For wave fields that include breaking, the compound Poisson process increases the linear growth rate of the mean and variance and introduces a finite skewness of the particle position distribution.@en