Ocean wave breaking is a difficult-to-model oceanographic process, which has implications for extreme wave statistics, the dissipation of wave energy, and air–sea interaction. Numerical methods capable of reliably simulating real-world directionally spread breaking waves are useful for investigating the physics of wave breaking and for the design of offshore structures and floating bodies. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics is capable of modelling highly steep and overturning free surfaces, which makes it a promising method for simulating breaking waves. This paper investigates the effect of smoothing length on simulated wave breaking in both following and crossing seas. To do so, we reproduce numerically the experiments of highly directionally spread breaking waves in McAllister et al. (J Fluid Mech 860:767–786, 2019. https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.886) using a range of normalised smoothing lengths: h/ d_p= 1.4 , 1.7, 2.0, 2.3, with h smoothing length and d_p particle spacing. The smallest smoothing length we use appears to adversely affect the fidelity of the simulated surface elevation, so that the tallest wave crest observed in experiments is not fully reproduced (coefficient of determination r²≈ 0.7). For smoothing lengths h/ d_p= 1.7 , 2.0, and 2.3, the experiments are well reproduced (r²≥ 0.88); in these simulations smoothing length predominantly affects the spatial extent and duration of breaking. Qualitative and quantitative comparison of our simulations shows that values of h/ d_p in the range 1.7 - 2 best reproduce the wave breaking phenomena observed in experiments.

Wave breaking in the ocean affects the height of extreme waves, energy dissipation, and interaction between the atmosphere and upper ocean. Numerical modelling is a critical step in understanding the physics of wave breaking and offers insight that is hard to gain from field data or experiments. High-fidelity numerical modelling of three-dimensional breaking waves is extremely challenging. Conventional grid-based numerical methods struggle to model the steep and double-valued free surfaces that occur during wave breaking. The Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method does not fall prey to these issues. Herein, we examine the SPH method's ability to model highly directionally spread overturning breaking waves by numerically reproducing the experiments presented in McAllister et al. (2019). We find that the SPH method reproduces the experimental observations well; when comparing experimental and numerical measurements we achieve coefficient of determination values of 0.92−0.95, with some smaller-scale features less well reproduced owing to finite resolution. We also examine aspects of the simulated wave's geometry and kinematics and find that existing breaking criteria are difficult to apply in highly directionally spread conditions.

Freak waves, abnormally large waves, that occur in the open-ocean can cause significant damage to offshore structures and vessels. In this paper, we attempt to numerically reproduce the experiments of McAllister et al., (2019, J. Fluid Mech. [1]), to investigate the potential properties of the Draupner freak wave [2] in more detail. We use a Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method to solve the full-3D Navier-Stokes equations. This Lagrangian method is able to recreate wave breaking, and has the potential to fully reproduce these experiments with the aim of providing further insight into properties of the waves created such as their kinematics and geometry. We compare time histories of water surface elevation produced numerically using four different particle sizes with experimentally-obtained data. We find good agreement in the time domain, with r2 (coefficient of determination) values between experimental and numerical data of over 0.94 the error in maximum wave height was less than 5 % for the finest particle size (over 100 million particles). We also numerically reproduce wave breaking observed in the experiments, where jet formation and breaking phenomena are qualitatively similar in appearance.