Methodology for measures of twist and crimp in canvas paintings supports and historical textiles

Abstract

Twist and crimp values are of paramount importance to the textile industry in understanding the properties and performance of a textile, and their quantification has been a subject of study since the early 20th century. Twist and crimp are the result of how the fibers have been modified from the original bundle to shape the textile, so the industrial methods used to measure them are based on mechanically reversing such deformations. The same information is needed to study the mechanics of historical fabrics such as canvas paintings supports and historical textiles, but they are more difficult to obtain because these are often brittle and impregnated with foreign materials, less homogeneous and very limited in availability for sampling. Therefore, such fundamental parameters are usually unavailable for conservation studies.

This paper examines the protocols used in the textile industry and proposes new methods, developed from previous research, for the reliable measurement of twist and crimp in historical textiles. The twist measurement method is non-destructive as it is based on observing the textile and the fibers on the surface of the yarn. Crimp is the undulation of the interlaced yarns and its measurement is an invasive examination of the internal structure of the textile, as it requires the observation of individual yarns. Both methods, applied here to a group of historical textiles, provide data in accordance with the current parameters of the textile industry, and their use is relatively simple and inexpensive.