Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

Journal article (2018)

Authors

L. Cavaleri Istituto di Scienze Marine – CNR

S. Abdalla European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts

A. Benetazzo Istituto di Scienze Marine – CNR

L. Bertotti Istituto di Scienze Marine – CNR

Jean Bidlot European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts

undefined Breivik Breivik University of Bergen and Bjerknes Centre for Climate Research

S. Carniel Istituto di Scienze Marine – CNR

R. E. Jensen U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center

G.P. van Vledder

undefined More Authors More Authors External organisation

Wave dynamics Water waves Wave-current interactions Wave forecasting Wave measurements Wind-wave interactions

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Published Date

01-01-2018

Language

English

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Abstract

In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at the past, a critical analysis of the present capabilities and a foresight of where the field is likely to go. After a short introduction, Chapter 2 deals with the basic processes at work and their modelling aspects. Chapter 3 highlights the interaction with wind and currents. Chapter 4 stresses the need for a more complete, spectral, approach in data assimilation. Chapter 5 summarizes the situation with a discussion on the present status in wave modelling and a look at what we can expect in the future.

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