Individual wave height distribution in constant and finite depth regions

van Gent, M. R.A.; Caires, Sofia

Individual wave height distribution in constant and finite depth regions

Conference paper (2011)

Authors

M. R.A. van Gent Deltares

Sofia Caires Deltares

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Field data Wave height distribution Depth limited Flat bottoms Flume data

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Published Date

2011

Language

English

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Abstract

Several alternatives to the Rayleigh distribution have been proposed for describing individual wave heights in regions where depth-induced wave breaking occurs. The most widely used of these is the so-called Battjes and Groenendijk distribution. This distribution has been derived and validated in a context of a shallow water foreshore-waves propagating over a gently sloping shallow region towards the shore. Its validity for waves propagating in regions with shallow flat bottoms is investigated here. It is concluded that the distribution on average underestimates (outside its range of validity) high wave height measurements in shallow flat bottoms by as much as 15%.

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